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There is always the MAP ECU thats still around. I was concidering buying one myself, its very expensive though; even if it does do a lot.

Haha, a little while back I had my TB out as well and I didn't know what it was. It's called the dash pot and its an emission system I believe. It's supposed to hold the TB open slightly when you let off the gas to allow any already injected fuel to fully burn out.

I like it, easy to use and works just like it should. I have not hooked the boost line up yet, and I don't know if I ever will, mostly my plan was just to set it at like 2:30 and let it count that all the time. oh yea... and I don't have a stereo, and its not too high on my list of thing to...

I was wondering the same thing, to make it water tight so nothing can leak into the cabin...

Alright, blue wire did the trick. I clipped it and locked the doors boom- security light went on. I tested it too by unlocking the door from the inside and it went off. So you/HKS were right, its the second ign/acc wire that holds the key :) Thanks!

I have a half day of school today, so I'll have a little time between then and when I have to go to work. I'll clip that blue wire and see how it goes.

Actually I don't think I need to call Blitz at all, just like the HKS harness (possible the same one) there is a blue wire: (from the manual) "Blue Wire - Connect to secondary ignition or accessory wire" I would imagine that would be the one to chop right? I'll cut it on the tap harness, so if...

Hey guys, soon I should be picking up some guages/wideband/hook up my TT's boost line. I was wondering if you guys had any best method to get wiring or vacuum line for a mechanical boost line through the firewall into the cabin. Thanks! BTW, sry if this is a newb mechanic question... but I'm...

I should try contacting Blitz to see if they know anything about which wire I might be able to cut to make it work like that. Thanks!

Okay, nvm about the e-brake thing, I tried it with the car actually running tonight just now and it worked fine with the e-brake. I guess before you start it, its is still in like diagnostic mode and the e-brake light stays on for verification that the light works. So all is well in the wiring...

Thats odd, I don't get ANY noise whatsoever from the brakes, and they have good pedal feel. I just ran down to check the fluid and its definitly not low. The way I hooked it up was I split the switch wire, stripped about 3/8 into all 3, twisted and shrink wrapped them. I think it most...

The timer works fine in the aspect of letting the engine idle for a pre-detemined amount of time. It's the alarm + e brake that have me wondering. The alarm does not activate when I lock the doors from the inside or out when the timer is still active with the car in ON mode. Afterwards it has...

I don't think that replacements are limited at all. I have never had a problem getting anything for our cars aside from something like factory floor mats. Curt at Elmhurst Toyota is amazing at finding parts. see www.supraforums.com for his dealer forum.

Yea, you don't need another belt, its by itself.

Your uncle of all people? Damn man, I'd beat his ass after I put so much work into a car like you have. Best of luck to ya.

Where in Jersey are you? Probably more south then I am able to travel, but I'd figure I'd ask anyway. Looks really good though man! congrats.

15W-40 or 20W-50 full synthetic is what I would reccomend, I would reccomend against running the thinnest oil you can. I'm sure others will chime in with more of the same. Personally I run Amsoil 20W-50 synthetic.

Poor Supras.... what have their owners done to them... :(

Yea, I don't know for sure how long mine was out of wack but I didn't even really notice a difference after I fixed it. It won't really hurt the engine I don't think if its not running funny because of it.

Just take that number and add it to 1.2 to remain at stock compression. They probably don't have your exact specific size gasket, so get the closest one.