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Lets compare this, the price to make a 7m close to 400 rwhp is about the same price to swap in a 1jz. So.. 400 rwhp vs 280ish bhp. Now to compare the 7m to the 2jz, 400 rwhp EASILY on the price to swap in a 2jz. Sure the jz engines might seem more stout but merely the cost to swap them will...

Yesterday I pulled my ISCV off my upper intake of my 88 7mgte. I noticed the check valve has a tear in the rubber check valve which I think is causing my slight hesitation on acceleration. My question is does the ISCV shut completely when you're away from idle speeds or does it stay slightly...

You checked the fuses but did you wiggle them? When we built my friends 87 7mgte we went to start it but no fuel pressure at all. The pump REFUSED to come on but it would come on if you jumped B+ and FP. I even went as far as chasing wires and troubleshooting the ecu for the fuel pump. Turned...

Devin why did you end up putting the AFM there? Merely curious.

You could always pressurize the BOV too and see if it leaks under boost.

Just remember to cap off the line coming FROM the TB to the valve covers. You really don't want to pressurize your crankcase if you test the full system.

So you mean I have a piece of aluminum crap from this monstrousity?

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?24714-ECU-PINOUT-diagram-for-a-1987-7MGTE-ECU This should help you out. It seems to be the turbo indicator, defogger relay and the headlight relay. http://members.shaw.ca/boltz/7MGTE-MX83/1987-1988-7M-GTE,%20MX83.htm

Va beach is around 2 1/2 - 3 hour drive.

I'm in basically central Va. I'm willing to drive the car a little ways if that means I can get a good job.

I wonder if I'd hit full boost on my 7m with this before I had to change gears.. lol

First off, use a proper TSRM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ This is a lot more helpful and contains a LOT more information than the general knowledge haynes manual which covers mk1-2-3 supras. To me it sounds as if either the EFI fuse under the hood is bad or a bad fuse in...

Do yourself and mostly the car a favor. Do not treat it like shit until you KNOW (Not think) it won't kick your wallets ass. Abuse these cars and they WILL burn your wallet to the ground.

Well I fixed 90% of my cars hesitation by putting a boost leak tester on and fixing 2 big IC coupler leaks. My ISCV doesn't hold 15 psi nor does my Bosch bypass valve so those 2 are leaking. I still have a stalling issue when I push in the clutch at around 3k but it doesn't stall when I clutch...

Well then take this constructive criticism and get your damn car back.

Check your EFI fuse. Does the CEL come on with the key in the on position?

Mine has a very similar problem, no power under boost. The PSI gauge will climb but the butt dyno says I'm going nowhere, the car goes faster at about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I think my problem is a boost leak because I've got a good known Bosch recirc valve and I'm getting slight compressor surge...

12 is really over the STOCK ct's range. Upgrade to the ct2657 and then 15 is about your peak.

Well the AFM fixed quite a few drivability issues and it doesn't hesitate as bad under boost now. It still gets mad under boost though and backfires if you let off while its under boost. My car doesn't pull half as hard as my friends bone stock 87 7mgte at half throttle. Slightly frustrating.

When it comes to how bad can everything be, assume the worst possible cases. Make yourself a check list of what you need to go over before you buy the car. Check for things like head warped? If so how bad, is it in repairable spec? Check how bad the rust in the cylinders are, if any. Ask how...