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Okay so with that test I have these readings. KS -> E1 Infinite E1 -> KS 490.9k VS -> E1 173k (Assuming VC is VS) E1 -> VC 172k THA -> E2 2.7k at 72 degrees. According to these readings if I did it correctly, I'm searching for a new AFM it seems lol

Sweet thanks, I was looking for this but couldn't find it. I didn't like the TSRM only has 1 of the tests in it..

Alrighty so I started my car up to go somewhere and went to pull out and the car started to buck like mad at part throttle. So after I limped it home I didn't have any CEL come on but I ran a test and sure enough, code 31. Switched it with another AFM I had here and now the car doesn't want to...

I have to agree, it makes sense to a point but not too fond of it hanging there. To each their own.

Grab some 'gunk-gone' or brake cleaner, carb cleaner might work as well. Just make sure you run a rag on the inside as some residue might be left.

Try loosening the elbow with your hands this time instead of your ass. On a side note I put anti-seize on mine so hopefully I won't need to hurt myself getting them off.

You mean your girlfriend passes you around.

From a dead stop, 7m will win(If the clutch holds lol).

Are you using the correct ecu? Do you have 2 knock sensors for the GTE ecu?

You could also get a big pipe cleaner and run all through the lines to clean them as well.

You could also go to an Audi dealer with the bosch part number and buy one.

Carb'd rotary? If you also do a HG job correctly, you won't have BHG problems at 350rwhp or bhp.

Wouldn't the car have to run for a set time above 200 rpm for the CEL diagnosis to do any good?

If you're having to ask yourself if it needs to be replaced, I'd replace it. Why have something stupid fail after all the work you're trying to do to get it to work?

Just because it "shouldn't" be a BHG doesn't mean it isn't. Do yourself a favor and just pull the plugs to do a compression check.

Warm compression would be better than cold compression. They tell us to run the airplane engines before compression testing them. It makes it fun to handle a spark plug at operating temperatures.

There would be plenty of hell to pay. I only cash physical checks. When I mean physical, bite the curb.

You can pick up a ct26 from members on here for around 100 bucks.

Did the fuel pump fix the issue? Hopefully all the crud didn't travel and clog up the lines.

The car will still run without both the AFM and O2 sensor, you just can't rev the engine at all with a bad AFM. Did you try cranking the car with number 1 plug out and grounded it to see if it's firing?