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I'm running a ct26 57 trim right now, with stock injectors and the afm. I do have a afpr along with walbro 255 but even having the upgraded turbo, my afr's on 'decreased' base fuel pressure I'm still running 10.0 WOT afrs. I can watch my boost gauge needle bend then fuel cut hits, as long as...

Have you checked the TSRM in regards to erratic idles?

The AFM can be 'deleted' per say if you use a MAFT or a standalone, some will suggest deleting it as for 'ease of tuning' but some will say keep it seeing as the AFM is more accurate.

Benefits of superchargers are easily shadowed by turbo charging as hvyman said. Supercharging a 7m is capable but much much more difficult. I believe an Eaton from a Grand Prix GTP was used.

When this bottleneck is removed, you won't need your boost controller til you get the lex/550's installed. Mine went from 6-8 PSI to bending the needle on the stock gauge just from changing the downpipe. Yes, I changed the parts in steps to see if the butt dyno could notice a difference. On the...

I bet your fuel smell on deceleration is caused by your vacuum connection on the FPR on your fuel rail nearest to the alt. Pic 1 charcoal canister BVSV and ALL evap/egr stuff along with all the hardlines for the vacuum system. Pic 2 is the boost gauge sensor and speed cruise control Pic 3 That's...

Well if you're wondering the changes it'll be, I raced my friends 87 turbo that was stock and at 12 psi. At half throttle I pulled 1/2 a car on him before I was changing to 3rd, at full throttle from a dead stop I let off at the end of second because he was several cars back. At that point I...

I just noticed the thread title change, awesome. Won't the 272's kill your almost already gone bottom end torque? Between your turbo and the 272's it will be a pig driving around town won't it? When I was doing the 1j in my 83 I was told 272 and a pt6262 with a .68 ar it would be horrible...

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-12mmx125toan-6adapter.php Perhaps this is it, you can also give aaron a call, he can probably tell you.

Perhaps you should use the search engine as well and find out why search police are bashed here.. We're not SF so please keep it off the forum. OP, http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?5631-7M-assembly-tips. this is probably closer to what you're searching for.

Bit off topic now, but the auto mated to the 7m or 1j would work for me.

I wouldn't say bad rear but I would say worn out suspension. The tire is trying to accelerate and at the same time compresses the suspension, when this happens the car should 'squat and go'. In your case the suspension is traveling too far compressed and the rebound is trying to push the tires...

The stroke will also increase displacement.

I thought of going auto, merely because I could pre-stage the drivetrain and launch harder with less stress.

That's why you just swap everything over, you'd also have a spare engine to work with.

Well, that's odd. Seeing as the speedometer cable is none of the possible issues for the auto transmission, bet you have another problem with the transmission.http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=10

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?132513-My-7MGE-NA-T-Lots-of-good-pics-and-info Here you go.

I don't mean cheap out on it by any means. I'm a firm believer of doing it right the first time. I was merely suggesting just pull the parts off the working 7MGTE and install them on the NA in the car. I can think of a few things off the top of my head I would change/add. Do a walbro255 or mk4...

Just out of the blue, why not go NA-T? Cheaper.. and less hassle.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=110 Use that to check the circuit opening relay. We need a tad more info, does the fuel pump cut off when you go WOT? Can you make it repeat itself at will?