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Cygnusx1.net

The problem is that at 900rpm your motor actually has oil pressure, and it won't self destruct like toyota wants it to. at 650rpm, you're lucky to maintain 9 psi... My car idles perfectly at 650rpm with 9 psi oil pressure... ;)

$15 on Ebay all day long.

OK, AM1 powers the ignition switch. AM2 also powers the ignition switch, but there are two seperate power leads inside the switch. AM2 powers IG2, AM1 powers ACC IG1 and St1. When the key is turned to Start, AM2 leaves power on IG2, but AM1 transfers all of its power to St1. So ACC and IG1 are...

haha Well, if I was rolling around with 38 psi fuel pressure, and 16 psi boost,.. I'm lucky I only hurt the bearings. I'll plastiguage everything and let you know how it looks. Since you care so intently about the oil clearences of my engine... ;)

more than the $780 per cam for todas?

Yeah, so I see. You bastard. you wanna send me a set of those cams?

Both true, but it iwill make 300 hp all day long at 10 psi with the proper bolt ons and tuning.

Everything is peachy up there, although... Now that you mention it, I remember noticing one time when I was showing off the afpr to someone that the reference line didn't have any vaccum going to it. I wiggled something under the intake mani, and it started working again. I really didn't think...

if you really want to know, get some long vac lines and run a line from the front of your turbo to your turbo pressure sensor, then run the line that originally goes to the turbo pressure sensor to your waste gate actuator. This will do two things. First, it will raise your boost by the...

True true. I think it may have had something to do with the dyno pulls going to 7K every time. Plus it's an older motor. The new shells clipped in like they should. I've heard that when the oil is polluted by gas that it can shrink the bearing shells. Either way, I'm still building the big...

hell, we made 300 whp with 10 psi on a stock ct.

Hmm, They're all pretty new RC 550s, probably 30K on them max. I noticed that all of the rod bearings fell out of the caps, but only #4 showed any visible signs of detonation. Either way the new bearings should help my idle oil pressure, which was sitting at a paltry 9 psi... The new bearings...

oh, well I didn't tap them in, I put the hex wrench through the oiling hole in the crank and lined that hole up with the hole in the bearing and then rotated the crank to pull the bearing out. So if I let the crank drop, I should just be able to push them in and out instead of having to use...

Thanks Ian, I'll do that, #6 and 7 are the ones I fudged up on, so hopefully they can order me a new #1 bearing, and swap out the #6 and 7 bearings by tuesday or so. Do you roll the bearings in by hand, or is there a tool that I should have to roll them in without hurting them? The hex wrench...

Thanks Ian, You're a lifesaver. ( not the candy kind...) Would you roll in the top bearings, and replace the cap with the bottom bearing lossely? so that the crank is never just hanging...

so the tranny won't keep the rear of the crank lifted? luckily I'm stupid and ordered two of the wrong main bearings, so I'm only out the money, as I'd have to wait untill next weekend to get it back together anyway.

Thank you. They are all loose, but not removed...

Hey, I just replaced the rod bearings with great success and now i'm on to the mains... I dropped the subframe (thank you toyota) dropped the pan and the oil pump and the rod bearings were cake. I then pulled the first main cap, and used a small allan wrench through the oil port in the crank...

Ha! I'm looking for an IHI RX7 turbo, anyone have a flow map for that?