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There is no need to, as the pressure plate/ clutch cover only fits on the flywheel one way. Putting matchmarks removes confusion, though.

Quick, run clevites. King is manufacturing aluminum bearings, which cannot hold up to race conditions over time. They have about 20 thous of Al, with no babbit, so they save production cars from scuffing the crank with low oil pressure, but they smear when pounded. ACL makes a good bearing, but...

Unless you have Major intake upgrades, I.E. cams, throttle bodie, MAF, etc... then they will make you run lean. Fuel injectors rarely increase performance, they mearly puch the threshold of performace further. For instance the stock 440s on turbo cars are good for 400 hp, but we upgrade to 550s...

there are two "1" wire units. The top one, is the water temp sender for the gauge. The lower "1" wire connecter is the A/C switch which switches to ground at 160 deg to turn on the auxilary fans when the a/c is on. This connector can be used as the ground for aftermarket fans, eliminating the...

just find the conecter on the P/S fender, and cut the yellow wire. The yellow wire pulls the relay in and feeds power through the resistor. Without the relay, the resistor no longer is in the circuit. Just cut the yellow wire, that's all.

borrow a timing light. anyone who owns a timing light should be able to help you use it. the only trick with supras is that you can't reach plug number one, so you use plug number 6. That and you need to put the car in diagnostic mode, which is what you do to check for codes. open the check...

sounds like detonation to me...

just cut the yellow wire at the fuel pump relay/resistor pack. and the pump is always "hard wired" when the fuel map is in open loop, I.E. when the engine is under load... Unless someone has monitored the fuel pump voltage and noted different, But yeah, you could use the factory power wiring to...

What turbo do you have right now?

Cooleeze = cheap, effective, and good.

Try and jumper power directly to the starter and see if it starts. if it does... then check the ignition switch, starter relay, theft computer, clutch switch. shouldn't take too long to isolate the problem. Let us know how it goes. -jake

It's really not that hard... WAY easier than doing a head gasket...

bad gas? If your special, you can remove the KS without removing the starter... ;)

It takes about 2.5 hours for a novice to drop the pan with the motor still in the vehicle. Follow the TSRM, all the brake lines, abs sensors, etc... are long enough to drop the entire X member (held in place by motor mount nuts X2, big bolts X2 and big nuts X4) about 12 inches below the pan...

Monitor your Vf. Hook a volt meter to Vf and E1 on the check connector and tell us what it reads. If your fuel system is in good working order, you should get a reading of 2.25-2.5 when cruising, and it should read 0 when you hit it hard.

If you wire constant voltage to your electric fans, we have a built in temp ground switch used for the A/C fans built into the water neck. Just route fused power to the fans, and ground them at the temp switch, and they'll come on all by themselves at 160 deg or so. It makes for a much cleaner...

I thought that was bypassed... Glad you got it fixed.

noise suppressor. Funny post guys ;)

sorry, we need impeller wheel measurements, exhaust footprint, exhaust AR and turbine measurements to tell you ANYTHING about the potential of that turbo. what you told us is kind of like, "I own an early 90s toyota. How fast will be in the quarter?"

check your thw sensor AKA coolent temp. It should be the middle conector on the thermostat neck. It sounds like the ecu doesn't know what the engine temp is, so it just defaults to 173 or so, so your car runs weird until it's up to operating temp. At least that's why my car did that...