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I think he's using a .8x size turbine housing.

I'm not saying you can't build boost in first with a bigger turbo, it has to do with load on the engine.

random thread for no purpose

stock ct26? they don't hold to redline cause the turbine is too small. if your dipstick pops out by itself, you have excessive blowby causing increased crankcase pressure or your crankcase vents are clogged/faulty.

normally creep is due to not enough flow, is the wastegate installed correctly with nothing in the way?

unplug your safc and start over. here's a little hint, if its getting better when less air is given, perhaps you should double check everything that can give your engine air.

I looked a month for a local hx40 in good shape with the short t4 housing on it, couldn't find one.

Never really taken a good look at the door jams and such but is there rubber bump stops on the doors? Could have one of those adjusted out way too far.

I actually changed my mind as well, ended up going with a zeta 3.2 with a .6x t4 housing. I was afraid the HX35 would quickly be at its limits with me only on pump gas, if I had easy access to E85, that would of been a different story..

As long as you get the same parts.

False, my gs341 walbro 255 held pressure fine, my walbro 400 does the same thing.

Auto is faster, manual is more fun.

Since you're deciding not to read around it, I'll re-word it for you.

I'm not trying to use fake anything for any legitimate reason, merely trying to understand the purpose why some manifolds have it and some don't.

I said you could but I didn't know what problems it could cause. The only thing I can think of would be a constant temperature applied to the casing but with the engine running and the engine bay warm, wouldn't there already be a constant temperature applied anyways? Do the JZ series...

Hmm, catch can on NA.

What internals were put into it? I hope he gave you more specs on the build then just saying ceramic coated and ARP. A decent set of pistons that are balanced and ceramic coated will cost almost 1200 dollars is the reason I ask.

I know you can keep the intake down a few more degrees if you do some steps to keep engine bay temps down. There's a gasket that helps prevent heat transfer between the head and the intake. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-heatshieldinggasket7m.php You could always bypass the throttle body...

Using 1st is fine for the smaller turbos(CT, gt28 etc etc) because there is enough load to get them moving in 1st. When you get closer to 60mm wheels and such, 1st is not enough load to provide an accurate boost at RPM. If I ever say I got X boost at Y RPM, mine is normally loaded in 3rd gear...

Rail should pressurize as soon as the key is turned to engage the starter. My cars fuel pressure doesn't drop over night nor drop over a month, I just went out to check a leak and noticed my FP still at 34 PSI. There's a problem with the car at all times but it only shows itself under harder...