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Ate a driveway, do a boost leak test and make sure you didn't bump anything else off. Sounds like a boost leak cause stock system should get 6.7 psi. If you've got full exhaust it'll go to 9-11 psi.

Use what you wish, its your car. I personally won't be using a china fitting on something that can cause an engine bay fire.

You know that you can gut a ct26 and a 7mgte will still run. What were you doing when the turbo let go?

and you clearly didn't get my point, I was showing you a -6 isn't always the same. google summit hose ends and check out all the threads from people complaining of leaking fittings etc etc.

Heh, an oil cooler not doing anything. Bet it does a bit more than you realize if it's in proper working condition.

Ouch, damn that's a sharp bend in that thing. I bet it goes almost flat with that kink. You don't need to go into the oil pan, just run a 45 off the flange on the block.

I think its a problem with your drain. -4 at our oil pressures should not be able to flood the CHRA in a HX35 with a non-restricted -10 drain. This was taken directly from a holset service manual. 13. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4...

Stronger transmission with the option to use MC parts to build it up.

Just use a R154, almost the same gear ratios.

Fixed. A properly built R154 will hold quite a bit, remembers it's not the HP that kills things it's the torque. Seeing as the supra engines don't always leave the line under 2-step and sticky tires, there's still quite a bit of driveline shock especially if the rear starts hopping. I would...

If you're going to tune it after the 550cc's are installed, get the flexibility of the AFPR as well. You never know when you might need to bump or drop static pressure. Also, I'm not sure how well the stock FPR for the 2j rail flows but it could cause flow stability issues.

pump air into the waste gate to see when it moves. either the waste gate is faulty or the air isn't properly getting to it

what does the vf do when it misfires? how much correction are you adding with the 550 on stock afm? what is the gap of your plugs? what is your base fp? it almost sounds like the ecu enrichment is causing it. would it be possible to replicate it by unplugging the ecu water temp sensor on the neck?

just bend and flare both ends with the fittings on it. no need for a rubber hose at all.

Some say yes, some say no. I don't use a SAFC on my setup but someone will say its needed. You can play with the AFPR and the adjustment screw to keep the vF signal happy and get decent afr's in open loop. Mine idles at 15.1-15.4 and cruises at 14.7 then WOT is 11.1 and slowly goes to 10.7...

Just to give you a little idea of what I mean. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1209_an_hose_ends_fittings_comparisons/viewall.html And just like ebay intercooler piping, you can get that massively thin wall bullshit that'll crush before it gets tight enough to do anything. Cheap, fast...

What do his AN fittings measure over all and on the ID?

If there's milkshake in the PVC, guess what. Water doesn't get in the system through the head normally. Flush both the coolant and oil several times once you rebuild the engine at least if you don't want to pull the oil pan and check the bearings. The knock sensors can be rewired very easily...

Summit AN fittings are under sized and suck balls. Go with Earls You people keep forgetting that you get what you pay for. Cheap, fast and reliable. Pick 2.

You just aren't having any luck with turbos are you?