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The targa is tweaked a certain way to apply pressure on the gaskets, could it be that doing it wrong for so many years has deformed the targa?

Thats what I was thinking, cause 320 bhp minus the drivetrain loss of roughly 10% still leaves it in the ballpark of 290.

Agreed, thats why you need like 30% more fuel to make the same power as 93 octane.

Ha, my guess was close. I was only off by 2 PSI.

Well, the parts car I purchased has a targa on it from a similar situation. The guy bought the shell but only tightened down the back ones. Once the car reached 60, it peeled back like a tuna can. I've got pictures to show it.

Well, this is pretty vague. Doesn't show RPM or anything. If I had to guess, I'd say a 1j with 264 cams in the 25 psi area.

IIRC, and I don't have one around me to measure, but the ct26 isn't exactly a small shaft. It's probably due to the 270 degree thrust bearing inside it instead of a 360 degree thrust bearing. I think a 60-1 ct26 would live for a long time if it's daily driven on waste gate pressure then only...

Sounds a bit low.

A 60-1 ct26 with one HELL of a clipped wheel will make 450 rwhp. I don't know how long it'll last pushing it to 22 PSI though. It'll be more reliable just to get a bolt on pt58 from someone.

I wonder if the numbers stamped on the top are the degree in pitch of the teeth then the number of teeth on a 360 degree. Such as 10 degree pitch with 32 teeth as opposed to 11 degree pitch with 33 teeth. You would honestly have to changed both trans/speedo gear to maintain it from transmission...

Or buy one of mine for 50 bucks+shipping

not much of an introduction.. welcome to sm. I know its scary but its just a pull off cover iirc.

the more you try, the worse it'll get. you pulled the threads out basically. was there metal shards on the stud when you pulled it out? did you torque the stud to the block using an allen head socket or torque the nut on the stud?

Interesting, most of the 7m owners here have this same stumble, I wonder what it could be, not to mention those in the thread I posted have the same issue.

It is indeed a bitch, sounds like your cable has stretched which is also mounds of fun to replace. As said above, your entire arm is needed in this process as you'll be stuffing it into the access panel. I think with the antenna motor removed it's a bit easier to get to but I could be wrong.

So the PO decided for the engine to have a slight miss at idle, way to go Nick. I'll just leave this here. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?52217-IGNITER-GROUND...-crispics

I didn't mean they came like that from the factory, something like shouldn't even be taken as such. what causes the slight miss at idle for 80% of the people here?

I believe I grounded my igniter with 14 ga wire. All you do is pop open the case and run another wire from the internal case ground.

These cars normally do have a slight miss at idle because of the igniter not having the best ground. Search for the igniter grounding mod to help that slight bump at idle disappear.

Exactly what I'm trying to say. No way can this one problem cause a healthy engine to stall, other things must be factored in to aid in that.