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I believe so. The stock gears look identical. I'll compare them tomorrow to be sure.

^^+1. I use the same fans. They have a low speed resistor built into the shroud that I use for temp. control, and a direct 12v feed for high speed that I use for the A/C. Easy to mount, just seal the shroud to the radiator so they pull correctly. And get the stock Ford fan harness as well...

Air filters: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html 3" mandrel bent stainless exhaust will out flow, and last longer, than your standard crush bent mild steel exhaust pipe.

Stock valve train will only be good for stock rev limit and red line. Once you go beyond a certain point, the valves will start to "float," meaning they hang open because the springs don't have enough opening pressure to pull them closed before the cam lobe comes around again. So the stock...

Comp Cams part#: 975. It's the inner valve spring for a big block chevy dual spring kit. 55 lbs. seat pressure, 127 lbs open pressure. Stock is around 35 lbs. seat pressure. You need 2 sets. They run around $30 each set from Summit, but I got mine from a local Comp dealer for $50 total.

I thought you already had the head off? Anyway, I usually undo it at the cat. Easier to get to. Then you can pull the whole thing out and separate it.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1646965&postcount=17 http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4077627&postcount=2 Those should help some.

Check the valve for the heater on the fire wall, passenger side, right above the charcoal canister. It should open when you turn the heat on, and close when its off. Yours could be stuck closed. There's a thread here about how to open and close it manually. I don't have one on mine, so I...

Lol, sorry about that. You're right. I completely forgot about the u-joints in the column....

204,000mi. 86.5 n/a, dd, h.g. about 30k ago.

Go take a nap, and put it together tomorrow when you're rested. The temp. fluctuations of ambient temp. shouldn't be enough to change the shape of the head. If you're really worried about it, take it inside with you.

Block off plates might make the back of the head a little hotter than normal. The egr system on this motor only works on cyl.6, and works through the head. The exhaust gases are going to collect in the egr cooler, and not go anywhere, being constantly heated by the next pulse on cyl. 6. The...

Pull the head with it on, and get it when you have it on the floor. Just make sure the bracket to the block is off.

^^+1. Either that, or tie rod ends(they would have to be pretty bad to knock). Best to get it in the air and check it, or take it to someone you know. U-joints are part of the driveshaft. FWD cars use C.V.(Constant Velocity) axles, like what we have in the rear, just no where near as heavy...

If you don't trust him, get a second opinion. If it really needs that much work, I'd say $400 is a good price. I'm paying $300 to have my 7m head cleaned, vacuum tested, valve job, reassembled, and some machining done on the cams. Cleaning usually cost right around $50, and milling should be...

I see. So the high temperatures in that particular area are causing the aluminum to become so soft or brittle that 20 ft. lbs(more or less) can pull the threads out. If it got hot enough to effect the threaded holes for the studs, wouldn't you be concerned with the integrity of that entire...

I measured the temps across the top of the head at the coolant passage, not the valve covers. No, infrared thermometers aren't entirely accurate, but its much more accurate than the stock temp. gauge. Couldn't get used to the feel of that digi. tq. wrench(or its constant need of batteries)...

The end of the trim piece is loose, and it caught the fender. I had the same problem on my drivers door. Think the rust from the steel backer bowed it out, and the stock bolt that holds it in place is no longer attached.

lol, aye, I can do it myself, easily.... :) With installing electric fans, and having an adjustable temp. switch(the probe type), I've taken temperature readings across the head(top, exhaust side, and intake side) with an infrared thermometer, so that I could set the fans to run at the correct...

I think you may be over tightening the exhaust nuts a bit if you're pulling the studs out. When I installed my OBX header, it had a slight bow in the flange. Following the correct tightening sequence(center out, ALWAYS, EVERYTHING), I was able to pull the flange straight, and didn't strip a...