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^^ or the A/C condenser. I'd also look into coolant flow restrictions. From looking at the manual, I think the only thing the heater pipe would effect is the heater.

Sure it's not the speedometer cable behind the gauge cluster? Mine needs lubed really bad...

Ahhh, thanks.

What is the throttle body off of? It doesn't look right... Edit: I tried to find a good pic of the n/a t.b. linkage, but don't have one. If one doesn't get posted tonight, I'll snap a couple for you tomorrow.

Where it says "R154 N/A," in the trans. list, is that supposed to be the w58 that comes stock in the n/a?

Always hit the spindle. If your lazy(like me), and are replacing the tie rod end anyway, you can get a fork that goes in your air hammer. Makes short work of even the most stubborn tie rod ends. They make narrow forks for tie rod ends, and wider ones for ball joints.

Why are you taking the head apart? Let the machine shop do it. They have the experience to get it done right. To answer your question, I just pulled them off with pliers. Since I'll be installing new ones, I wasn't worried about tearing them up. You are talking about the rubber seal, and...

Try this: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Thermotec/Intakes/Air_Intake_Heat_Shields It's actually for intakes, and not exhaust. Cheaper, to.

You set the 31 when you unplugged it with the car running, more than likely. I would check the connections first, and make sure that all the pins in the harness are seated correctly, and there's no corrosion on them or the afm. Start here...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39059 Read that first....

He was probably thinking the 7m is the same as the 2jz motors. If the oem gasket is mls, so is Fel-Pro's.

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=A&P=4 Clearances for cam journals: No.1 26.949 to 26.965mm No.2 - 7 26.888 to 26.975mm Looks like No1 for the intake is just barely in spec., but the exhaust is .015mm to big. Might need to have it turned down a bit.

Starting it cold, like first thing in the morning, it should idle around 1200-1500. As it warms up, it should steadily drop down to around 750 to 800 in park/neutral, 650 to 700 in gear. If you blip the throttle, the car drops under 500 and dies? I think I'd check the dashpot for that. It's...

My 87 is the kind you have to unscrew the ball. Still not difficult. Either 10 or 12mm wrench, and some PB, just in case.

The black wire is the fusible link that Shaeff was talking about. I replaced mine with a 100 amp. fuse.

That last statement of mine was in reference to any "professionals" that would do that to a customer's car. If a customer wanted to be real pissy about it(I would), they could make you replace that portion of the floor to bring it back to stock condition, and be perfectly within their rights...

Mr.WOT: That is said in the link(about the exhaust stroke being the hardest), and made a lot of sense once it was brought to my attention. As far as the bmep, that motor would need to run a lower rpm shift point? Would a higher compression ratio help with that? Would it be possible to tune...

Ok, cut it then. Make sure all your measurements are perfect(measure twice, cut once). At least sand and paint the edges so that they don't rust. Only cut three sides, so you can fold it back in place when you're done. Silicone the seam so you have somewhat of a seal. Mechanics don't do...

Actually, yes, that would be beneficial knowledge to everyone. There's a write-up by Supracentral here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=180719&postcount=18 , which I think may contain some of the information you're hinting at, but would like to hear your input as well.

lol, they can't erase it if its in pen...