Uh, that you say it tested fine doesn't mean it's working. And why would you adjust fuel pressure from correct to incorrect? You're just making things worse.
IM240 eh? And people think California is tough. Anyway, check the EGR. Might also want to check if a little lean (use the stock O2 sensor) and if hot. Likely EGR though. That or the reduction bed is getting tired.
Why would you piss away what little disposable income you have on an old car at time in your life when it's one of the worst moves you could be making? Of all the stuff you should be saving up for this should not even be among them. :nono:
I'm asking if it's operating in closed loop. Is the O2 sensor cross counting the specified amount within the time specified in the TSRM? Is the average voltage about 450 mv? In lieu of that is the emulated O2 signal on Vf cross counting with an average of 2.5 volts?
Can't tell? Don't have the...
Not that it matters much but technically speaking the lead on those things is as short as possible for a reason. It's why you'll always find them mounted on the rear of alternators to begin with.
^ Off topic but love the avatar. Also loved the fireworks. Having flown in I'd never been that close before. Plus the surrounding areas all going off. Great stuff.
Yes
1) The cold start switch runs an autonomous injector, one that can't function after the key is released from start.
2) The code 22 involves the EFI coolant sensor. It's what the ECU looks at.
3) A code 22 makes the ECU think the engine is already hot but doesn't effect cold start...
None of those codes will prevent the engine from starting although 22 could make it a little tougher. Since you provide very little real information (spark, fuel, compression, timing) there isn't much else I can offer. I'm assuming it cranks..
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