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It comes in from where the glass meets the hatch on the bottom, under the molding. The molding can be removed, and you can use some glass adhesive. Talk to someone at a body shop to get the same stuff they use. Silicone will not last long, as it will shink and pull away. BEEN there, tried...

I used the line and pump to the rear window washer instead of the front. That way I can still wash the widshield if needed. I got some of those little 'plant' spray nozzles that have a valve in them($.75 per 3) at wallymart. Works great.

Check the voltage at the battery, car off. Then check at idle, then 1k, 2k. Does the volt meter show fluctuations?? Perhaps the alternator/internal regulator is acting up.

You probably aren't getting any voltage TOO the headlight. If you changed harness, and thats when problem started, then check for juice at headlight bulb connection, then work your way back from there. Could be bad connections, or a broken wire in new harness. Check grounds (the over-looked...

Possible heater core leak. Is a/c on? Possible evaporator leak. Does it smell like oil burn, or plastic wire burn??

That's interesting reading , bluemax. I think there out to be a section (header) called "Links of Interest" so we all can easily get to these kind of important items.

Well, don't use any spray lubes. In Most of them is a carrier chemical(it evaporates away) that dries out the rubber and such parts. Seems to me if you lubed the inside and outside of 'all' the bushings, that should be all thats needed.

Well....I think there's been WAY too much traffic on this thread !!! And as punishment for that, all you reply-ers (me included) are to go out and polish your cars until the shine would even re-blind Stevie Wonder. !!!!!

Yep...what he said. And after you read thru the proceedures, I think you'll agree that its a bunch of work to do twice. Try to be nice to the Toyota parts guy, and see if he'll let you have it for 'net' plus tax. Saves you 20%. :icon_razz

They also look like someone might have been leaning on the fender while they're hands were under the hood. Was anyone not using a fender cover while working under there??? I've seen those type before, gotten at the Toyota dealer. Fortunately they could be buffed out.

I believe the empty line goes to the heater water vsv.

Just tap in some new threads, and get an over size thread fitting, or and adaptor and a new fitting.

Pistons w/rings...bored 30-60 over is fine. Be sure to have the head done too. Its apart, so don't go cheap and take shortcuts, cause you'll just be doing it all over again, sooner than you'd like.

You've already answered your own question....When a problem begins right after doing some work/changes....it must be that work is the problem. I put new rotors and pads on my 89 n/a back in Jan. They were vibrating like yours, right away. I took the rotors back and swapped them for a new...

It can be fixed with a helicoil !!??!!

Yea, do what he said. You are only taking the T-belt off the cam gears, not the crank. PUT a rag in the top of the lower cover to keep anything from falling down in to the crank gear area. I made a seal puller from a stiff coat hanger (looks like an "L"). Put motor oil on the outer part of...

What he said....free too !!

Yep, I'd have to say I've used the top-of-the-line Screw-Lock Helicoil, which provides added vibration resistance via a specially deformed center thread. They worked fine, and is 'much cheaper', and easier to find, than the 'Keenserts" I mentioned earlier. I was a tech at Toyota for over 4...

Quote: Too much oil also makes the crank whip the oil into a froth, and froth is full of air. Oil full of air is about as useful as no oil at all. Soooo True... Well, you all can add as much oil to the crankcase as you 'think' is right for you. But, for me, having lived and breathed...

Yep, if there is a groove worn where seal rides, it will leak again pretty quick. The same thing happens alot on the front crank seal. You can have a sleeve made and installed pretty cheap at an automotive machine shop. Just take the flange (or crankshaft dampener) to them. It gets pressed...