That's a little "whatchamacallit". It keeps the car from lifting off the ground when you drive over 100 mph.
If you want to know what Toyota calls it, call their parts dept and give them the part # that's stamped on it.
Even tho the first sentence is true, I still think its a noise...
If there is a "Harbor Freight" store near you, get a battery load tester. It will also tell you how many volts the alternator will put out. They are about $15-20.
maybe that 'new' battery is not fully charged.
It sounds like its door panel pulling time. You'll probably have to get in there and check it out. The locks may be jammed, or linkage messed up. At some point in the cars life, someone may have tried to get into it with a 'slim-jim' and messed it up.
OK......when it happened to my '89 N/A....it was the factory installed security system that cuts the starter out so the thief can't get it started.
Check your owners manual (cause its midnight now and I ain't going out there) and it will tell you how to reset it.
Oh ! Oh !.....I know ! I know !........It's a 'muffler bearing" connector. DON"T mess with it, or break it !!........They're like $1600 bucks from the dealer....It's a special order part, and will probably take about 18 weeks to get (plus you have to pay in advance). I'd take it to a...
The bosch injector seal kits are what you need. Any parts house will have them for about $10 for the 6 set. Was cheaper than toy dealer cause each seal is sold seperately.
OK...10-40w oil....it has the viscosity (pouring ability at 70*) of 10w oil, and the molecular strength of 40w oil. 10-30w...same principal. 20-50w...same principal, 5-30w...etc. Straight weight oil, say 30w, cold (70*) has viscosity of 30w. But, when heated to normal operating engine...
Doing a fuel pressure test, part of that test is to check for leaking injectors (and/or the check valve). After testing the pressure, and pressure regulator, shut off the engine and see if the system holds pressure for about an hour(?). If an injector is leaking (or check valve), the pressure...
A/C...perhaps ....There are 2 sensors/switches in the high pressure line along the frame area, on the way to the evaporator. Each has 2 wires connectors.
1 is for turning off the a/c when the pressure gets too high. When I converted to R134a, the high side pressure runs about 40 pounds...
QUOTE....Get a mechanics stethoscope from the auto parts store (or tool dealer), take off the rod/diaphram assy, and use just the hose to listen around for a leak. NOTE: I added some length of vacuum hose onto it so I would not burn the original one, and to reach further.
I've also used a coat...
QUOTE....just leaking very slightly should i get a new rack or keep on driving till its dead???????????????
Don't wait !!! I did. It blew the seal out on the drivers side while on the freeway in downtown L.A. on Sat. afternoon, Labor day weekend, on my way to the "Hot Import Nights" car...
The fronts will probably fit. The rears may be to wide for the offset. Check this site out, and their techs might be helpful. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/home.do;jsessionid=Czh2gWL8HgSXVpPQBTKPQlyDnQ1dMf2hpJlyF0Q71yTw9ZthSvzt!-2036288467!NONE
And this site...http://www.tirerack.com...
The minimum piece would be the one between the very front of bumper, and back to the metal framework under the radiator. This will force the air coming in the front grill area to go into, and thru, the radiator. Mine ran noticeably cooler when I made one out of galvanized sheet metal. (approx...
:wuteva:
Just be sure to clean the surface real good first. Use some brake spray cleaner on a rag, as it won't leave residue.
I think mine also leaks at the bottom of the glass, under the molding. I got tired of getting wet when I opened the hatch, so I drilled a couple of holes in the...
Get a gallon of Dextron III ATF (or synthetic if you choose).
Have a friend with you.
Have an old towel handy for drips, etc.
Have a trans funnel ready. (make sure it will fit the dipstick tube)
Have an old gallon bottle handy to put old oil into.
Jack car up a bit on drivers...
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