Search results

OHHHHH if code 51 goes away, at any throttle pos... thats bad

i dont understand how you check code 51 not at idle?? actually its not very clear at all, sorry. but i'm not wanting to jack his topic. i think you've gave him a good start.

interesting...please go on.:icon_surp

you dont need one of those, a regular volt meter will do it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/heedah007/maftpropre89diagram.jpg connect to VTA and ground and have a friend VERY slowly press the gas pedal, if at any points it gets lower volatge reading, thats a prob. approx .5v is...

TPS volatge has nothing to do with RPM, a dead spot would cause the car to basically die, tps would read 0volts, an open

i get a steady 25inches of hg, and i think i'll get even a bit more if i put a check valve between my intake tube(pre filter) and pcv hose. i'd figure any leak past the tb would cause a constant drop in vacum, not a flucuating one. is there a spec for vacum?

like ij said idler puller, if the ac clutch stuck then the ac would be on all the time, unless the compressor seized too...

yah i always get 'what year' i say 87(its 86.5) but no knows the diff, and conversation is over. the day i agreed to by my supra, me and a buddy went out to kill the night and get the car the next day, go to a bar, me and this cutie bartender get talkin and i say supra she goes "is it a 94" i...

hmmm i thought that was carpet, goo eye;) but that makes more sense than carpet...i like lol

very nice, love white. those springs were still good gool LOL carpeted garage? interesting.

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23 Come on man..search.

lol stick it to your ear, hammer handle might not go into your brain

are you getting fuel, or spark. hooking at bad up wrong will cause problems, but it turns over, does the check engine light come on with key on eng off? smell your tail pipe after turnign it over for a second;)

i wouldn't waste your money on wires...one day it doesn't start, change your tps and starts right up..hmmm set your tps, was the plug jumpered when you set timing, codes, plugs going bad after a tps went out. seems odd i dont even think wires would effect timgin as much as the heat of the spark

wow thats is some funny argument you guys got going i'd personaly disconnect the lines then turn your wheel a few times or completely to bleed most of the oil out, then loop them, they would still have lubrication, there is NO way youd "waste" engery compressing oil even a slight bit, air...

very good too to know. my battery is dead after it has be sitting for the build(have to jump it, and i know it kinda hard on the alt), and i get a quick lean condition when i step on it, i was just gonnna increase fuel with my maft but maybe i'll get a bat, even though i have no "proper"...

haha nicely done, but maybe people will think its na:naughty: j/k other than my wing(previous owner put it on) it still looks na which i LOVE lil sleeper

nah i plan on keeping my valve covers and coil packs as is, there damn sturdy, theres another brack at the back you cant see. i just wish when i had the valve covers off i painted them black. i got a centrforce(previous owner) not sure how long it will last but under some moderate pulls...

might be a long shot but my heater control valve solenoid leaked in a manner that the solenoid let the vacum suck atomsphere air instead of dead heading it, could even hear it. so i just jumped it to the valve actuator itself

well the first two if its a light ticking, moving around the length of the head, its the injectors, and normal, if not maybe valve lash is out a bit..not a big problem, then i heard you cam caps can come loose, bigger problem.. my head has ticked since i bought it, not worried, might fix...