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Would have to be pretty tiny, oil level hasn't changed at all in a month of daily driving and hasn't left any drops whatsoever where I park.

Any other ideas? Any reason to be concerned at all?

I was joking =P. JB-welding the plug in would be a little rediculous, hehe.

I've done some searching and couldn't find anything specifically in this forum, but I wanted to confirm anyways. I check the oil immediately after the engine's been running and it's been warmed up, and I'll occasionally see one or two small bubbles BELOW the oil level (not sitting on top)...

Who needed that drain plug anyway? Just pop off the lower hose if you want to drain, right?

If the plug itself is cheap I may as well just get a new one. No harm in even having a spare if the one I have just needs an O-ring.

There should be a couple brackets bolted to the side of your head above your exhaust manifold as well as a bolt bolting the thing down in the middle of the cylinder head valley between the cam covers. If you're wondering about the rod going between that linkage and the actual throttle, it's...

...you faithfully watch your temperature gauge, coolant level, and oil condition for signs of a BHG. ...you eat a little cheaper to make sure you have enough money to cover potential breakdowns. ...you read a 114 page thread about "You know you're a Supra owner when..." to pass time at work.

Reason I'm assuming the plug at this point is because it is wet at the bottom of the drain tube but I haven't noticed any wetness on the outside of it. It's a stock toyota rad, so if I were to be a guessing person the plug would be the same as well. I guess I'll start with just trying to...

I'm 99% sure that's where it's coming from, just a couple tiny drops landing almost directly under the tube from the rad drain. Is this common? Should I just drain, put some sort of sealer on the threads of the plug, and put it all back together or get a replacement plug?

PCV will do that. If you want to avoid that you can put an oil catch can in and that will take care of the oil going through the intake. The other possibility is a WAY over oiled air filter if you have the cleanable oiled filters like a K&N. If that's the case however, I'd be very suprised if...

^ This is true. I find that typically keeping the clutch in and shifting in to 4th before reverse will help reduce the chance of any grinding. Also, it will ALWAYS grind if you are trying to shift in to reverse if you are moving at all. Make sure you're at a complete stop before going in...

I've got a BIC on my car and it seals up nicely as well.

What gear oil did you put in the transmission? The R154 can be very picky when it comes to gear oils.

I can get them from a local parts shop for ~$70...

I had the same question when putting my engine back together. I was told they're grounds for the ECU. You'll want to make sure that they're clean and the surface you're bolting them to is clean as well. Any of the bolts that hold the two halves of the intake manifold together will work fine :)

I've seen people run some ducting from a fog light spot, but then you are giving up your fog lights. If you've got no AC, or your AC is shot and you aren't going to fix it, you can remove the condenser that sits in front of the radiator. Oh, and what turbo V8??

Gratz on the award and a very nice clean car!

I'm running 18"x8" +35 rims on my car right now, and there's absolutely no clearance issues. The rims came with 225/35/R18 tires, which end up being 1.*% larger than stock wheel diameter, so the speedo is pretty accurate still. I'd like to a 245 in the rear at the very least once these ones...

I wouldn't risk using the head gasket again, that's for sure. When you had the head off did you get it pressure tested at all? There can be cracks that you can't even see that will cause leaks. Did you check for leaks on all the lines back there by the union and the hardline just below the...