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The gurgling sound is air in the system, and if you have a leak it doesn't matter how many times you bleed it you'll keep getting more air in there. You sure it's coolant by intercooler? That's a pretty long way for coolant to go. Is your rad cap holding pressure properly? Get the cooling...

I agree with Poodles. Have you checked all of your ground points yet?

Yeah, there's no way gauges will pull enough to blow that fuse by themself. Especially if you're not using the lighter.

Ugh....that would not be fun. More details? Seller on eBay/product they were advertising?

Cigarette lighter power will probably work fine.

Check connections and fuses. You have power to the rest of the car when the key is in the "on" position? Check for voltage at the starter solenoid signal wire (small single wire that clips in to the starter, not bolts on) to see if that's getting power when turning the key to "start".

If you hit a pole and your lights were on and/or warm, then there's a good chance you're bulbs are just done. The filament gets increasingly fragile especially to sudden shock when it's on and heated up. The bulbs are dual filament for the brakes, so it's quite possible to have your "brake"...

Well, you can call me retarded. The inner brake bulb on the left hand side looked like a smoke bomb had gone off in the bulb. I removed them from the enclosure as suggested and it was pretty clear which was burned. Thanks for the suggestion there Poodles. The lenses very much can hide that...

Mine just starting happening out of the blue one day, so I'll give it a shot and pull the bulbs out. I was looking in to some of the threads on the bypass, but all the picture links were dead that I could find.

The lamp doesn't light up after it's inital startup check, but then comes on the first time I hit the brakes or turn the lights on. I did a visual inspection and all my lights are good...low beams, high beams, front markers, rear makers, running lights, brake lights, and signals all around...

If you're not being a complete retard then you'll always find lots of people willing to help you out with the tech side of things here :). Good luck with the shopping and keep us updated as to how it goes!

You need to do something with the electronics to be able to run the 550's properly otherwise it will run very rich. Understandable that you don't want to add much to "go wrong" on the first turn key, but if you're getting new injectors and you're using known good AFM electronics (you can still...

89 Turbo with 315,000km or 197,000 miles. Just redid the top end of the engine about 5000km or 3000 miles ago

How would you hook up the smoke for testing exhaust leak? Only time I've used them has been at my old job to try and find leaks in the evap system on vehicles, so hooking it up to the gas tank. I guess you could try and hook it up to the tip and seal around it but with a divorced downpipe all...

What's the easiest way to check/confirm where the leak is coming from?

It doesn't sound like it, it sounds more like exhaust manifold side of the engine rather than behind, but I'll definitely check it out. I sure hope not....that would be a major PITA to get to with the engine in the car :3d_frown:

I heard a little bit of a ticking noise when I was around 0 vac/boost on acceleration one day, so I spent a while trying to track it down. After youtubing/googling and searching around I'm pretty sure it's the sound of a tiny exhaust leak closer to the engine. So I went ahead and checked as...

0.7 bar = 9.8psi That's right around where I hit fuel cut as well on a cooler day (around 65F or 18C). I might get up to 11 (approx 0.8 bar) but it doesn't go much further than that. On a warm day (around 80F or 27C) it will cut closer to 12. It does very much change with the air...

I calculated out what my compression ratio would be when I was doing my engine build because my buddy had given me a 1.2mm Cometic MLS gasket for Christmas and wanted to make sure that it would all still be fine with the block having had 0.008" taken off and the head being prepped for the MLS...

Stock is a rising rate regulator, otherwise the vac line would be kind of unnecessary ;).