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The electronics between the two are the same. You can either buy the Lexus AFM as a whole with the electronics or you can buy just the body and swap in your old AFM's electronics. If you have a known good and working AFM, you may as well swap it in. That way you have one less potential...

If it's sputtering and running really rich it will likely be a spark issue. Check to see that you haven't fouled a plug, just to be sure. Check your plug wires, make sure they're tight and not cracked and actually carrying the spark to the plug properly. Check your resistances. Those are all...

I actually live literally right around the corner from ForceFed in Abbotsford. I'm right on Mt. Lehman between Simpson and the round-a-bout towards the freeway. Hope the tuning goes well, and always happy to hear of another Supra getting back on the road :)

Agreed with a lot of the other replies, that's very minor. I've got to cut out a good chunk of my rear passenger quarter panel/wheel well area and get a new fuel door because of rust from a hit and run from before I bought the car. Got the car for a good deal though, so I'm not really...

Supra has it's own set of plates again! No more temp insurance, it's finally on the road for a stretch longer than 3 days :icon_bigg. After numerous single day insurances, I think I've finally worked out my intermittent no start bug, and I've put a good 1000km on since my top end rebuild with...

Consider this first. Everyone will hit fuel cut at different levels because no two cars are going to flow exactly the same through the intake. Having things like an upgraded intercooler or pipes will lower the threshold because it flows more at lower psi. Even weather and location can make a...

^ Pressure test it. Better to be safe than sorry, don't want to have to rip it apart again. Also realize that every time you machine the head down and put on a stock gasket you're increasing your compression ratio a bit. Don't push it too far or you'll end up having to rip it apart again...

The other thing you'd probably run in to is some dried up seals. Anything not touching oil will most likely leak. I'd look at reasealing on top of looking at the springs. Compression test is always a good idea no matter if the motor was sitting or not so you have SOME idea on what the...

Already bypassed the starter relay, still losing 5V on the starting circuit...intermittently. If it was all the time, I'd have a heck of a lot easier time tracking it down. I've taken it in to a trusted mechanic and it never acted up once for him over 4 days. Insured the car for the weekend...

Registered! Looking forward to it and praying desperately that my car is running properly (still) at that date. If I don't get a chance to figure out my starting problems before then do I have volunteers to bump start me each time I need to get going? :icon_razz It's not that I'm lazy, I've...

I can't tell you for sure because my wire was cut for an aftermarket gauge before I got the car. I can tell you that the stock oil pressure sender on the engine is one wire, and it's got a clip that slips over a nub on the top of the sender. Hopefully that helps!

The multi 5 doesn't look bad at all. Also, I know there are some that have center caps or covers for the middle section and if that's the case, does it matter? I'd PREFER getting the proper fitment myself, but a multi 5 pattern wouldn't completely put me off a set of wheels.

You sure that you're not off by a tooth on any of the gears? I know the first time I put my build back together I had the same problem and it ended up being a tooth off from the crank/oil pump pulley to the intake cam pulley. I'd start by double (or triple) checking that. If the belt is on...

My car has a 3.5" exhaust, BIC divorced downpipe, high flow filter, and 2.5" IC hard pipes and I can tell you that I get full boost below 3000rpm. If you have a good intake and exhaust set up the turbo will always spool more quickly :)

Yeah, feeler gauges will give you a definite answer. If you can feel a wobble in the edge or can see light, it's already more than a couple thou out. If you're aiming for any sort of MLS gasket on the build, you have a ZERO tolerance for any warpage. Any sort of warp might seal for a short...

Typically my car runs everyday driving around 185F - 195F, if I'm pushing it hard in hot weather it will hit 210F (ish). That's right around where the stock electric fans kick in and it pretty much stops climbing any further then. I get super paranoid if it keeps going any higher though. I'd...

^ Seals dry up after extended periods of time without seeing oil. It might not go away without replacing the seals. They might swell after seeing oil again for a little bit, but I wouldn't put my money on them sealing properly. I'd expect to have to replace them.

I agree with IJ. Find a reputable machinist that you trust, because what you are dealing with is work that could potentially be the difference between having a strong engine or a blown engine. Having the block machined is absolutely crucial ESPECIALLY for the first time of putting a MHG on...

Yes, there are quite a few people who have put MKIV rims on their MKIIIs.

There is a direct line from the battery to the starter and it should stay that way. The blue wire bolts to the under side of the starter and is the supply for cranking. The other wire running to the starter (black/blue stripe with a brown clip IIRC) is for the solenoid and comes from the...