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Be a little bit more specific. How does it die? Does it sound like it floods itself? Does it idle rough on start? Try diagnosing from the TSRM. Here's a link with a list of all the engine codes, I've pasted the two you've pulled as well...

I wish I could say I'll be there, but right now it's crunch time with wedding planning stuff. When you only get to see your fiancé on weekends it makes it difficult to make it out. After the wedding hopefully I'll be able to make it out to some of these things.

I'll check the tension between the two sides. That might very well be the problem. I know I had tension on the other side, but I didn't think to check how equal it was. Glad I don't have to take off my pulley and junk though again.

I've been trying to track down this noise for a while and I finally found it. My timing belt is slapping against the side at ~1750rpm (and wavering again at ~3500rpm, just not bad enough to slap). Any other rpm's (higher or lower) it straightens up nice and tight. At first I thought it might...

^ DO THIS FIRST DO THIS FIRST DO THIS FIRST DO THIS FIRST ^ If it's been overheated there's a good chance the head is done. The alluminum anneals, gets soft enough that it won't hold the pressure, and it will crack around the combustion chamber. I speak from experience, I had 3 visual...

Just noticed a white mk3 parking just off the round-a-bout by the Mt Lehman exit in Abbotsford. Curious to see if they were on here or anything cause I live incredibly close on Mt Lehman and see it just about daily now.

Relay mod is a work around, not a fix. Look for jetjock's post(s) in that thread and the read the last page. If it's firing up while in "N" but not "P", try wiggling the shifter a little bit while in "P" and trying to crank at the same time. See if it fires at all. The switch might not be...

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Seeing as you mentioned "getting ready to go to wyotech to become a engine builder/chassis builder, need a reliable car and i dont have much cash at all ;/ ", I highly doubt you'd want to be dealing with a BHG... When you replaced the distributor did you replace the coil(s) as well? What...

Have you checked your plugs and plug wires? Is the timing at stock (10* BTDC)? Have you tried taking off/bypassing the FCD? It's more likely an ignition problem than a fuel problem unless you've got some injector issues.

I know a couple people who got burned by this sort of thing too. Be careful with it. Was gonna mention the SAFC/SAFCII, forgot to put it down. Like gofastgeorge said, simple, fairly easy to work with, and transferable.

I'd highly recommend finding some sort of way of tuning the fuel. Lex AFM + 550's are close, and it will run, but you'll get it running much better if you have some sort of way of tuning beyond a little screw in the AFM. Like Rich has pointed out as well, stock clutch is going to have issues...

Doing ARP hardware never hurts to be safe. Head studs are pretty much a must if you want it reliable. You'll have to look at fuel system once you've got the engine back together though if you're aiming for that kind of power. 550cc's at the least, upgraded pump, adjustable FPR, j-tube mod...

Yeah, that's very possible. We haven't seen too much this year yet, but I'd say we definitely have lots coming. Late Jan - Feb is where we start actually seeing winter climate usually....that and right around kids spring break time :p. His name is Rob Dyck. I don't remember when he left...

I'm definitely not looking forward to the traffic and security checkpoints etc. That being said I won't have to deal with a lot of that (hopefully) seeing as I live in Abbotsford, BUT, my fiancé lives in Coquitlam...so yeah. Not looking forward to bridge traffic, that is for sure. As for...

It's a super useful tool when it comes to those few places that you thought you were paying attention or baggying things properly and then you realize that oh....nope...you weren't :P. Or maybe it was when you were disassembling and you were on your 7th beer... None the less thank you isnms...

Some troubleshooting from the TSRM for the O2 sensor: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=119 Start by checking wiring and resistances. Make sure the pigtail wasn't getting too close to the exhaust and burning away. Check the clip and connections. If those...

You won't be able to see the difference from the housing, no. You MIGHT see a difference if you look at a stock and a larger trim one side by side if you look at the fins, but it would depend on how big of a trim the new one is. On the other hand, I have seen a few that have been stamped...

You should add what about under the oil cap after a drive where the engine's been at operating temp for a good 10 - 15 minutes. Everyone will get the milky looking junk under their oil caps on short drives from condensation evaporating from the crank case.

I know my rad cap says Toyota on it and 13psi. As for the waterfalls, as said before it's caused by air being in the system. Burp the system properly and check for leaks. Even if you have a tiny leak it will still let air in the system while heating up/cooling. Go over all your hoses while...