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Judging from the first video, my car does a similar thing with a little bit of smoke out the exhaust when stabilizing idle, but your's is definitely more blue than what I get. I asked a bunch of reputable mechanics that are local here that I trust and they all agree that mine is just some...

I can officially give you two thumbs up now :)

You can get a decent paint job with a spray can, just make sure it's prepped properly and the paint can handle the appropriate amount of heat.

I'd be worried about ruining the heat exchanging efficiency as well. If someone can confirm that it won't hurt that though, what would be stopping you from doing it with a rattle can?

I don't know about that, but I can tell you that I'm redoing wiring on the CPS side of the electrical, so I very well might be pulling it and redoing/checking timing tomorrow. I'm pretty sure that having no oil pooling in the intercooler and having good compression, we can eliminate rings as a...

Could be residual oil from the PCV inside the intake and under "normal operation" (IE, with a cat), it wouldn't show up. I'm going to be plumbing in an oil catch can hopefully in the next week or two (if I get the time and can figure out a place to put it :icon_razz), so that might help with...

I did just think of something. I'm 99% sure it doesn't do it when I have my cat in place. Could it just be slightly rich when dropping back to stabilize idle and because nothing's there to catch it you see it out the pipe? I'm putting my cat back in on Tuesday for doing smog/AirCare, so I can...

Not recently, but within the last 5,000 miles it was 165psi +/- 3psi.

No codes here other than fuel cut. Engine runs great in every respect to, no missing or stumbling or anything.

My vacuum's perfect, -20 - -21 at warm idle, -24 - -26 on decel depending on rpm. I do have a positive pressure boost leak somewhere though, fuel cut @ 9psi max. No wideband right now unfortunately :(. Completely stock fuel/electronics though. My head was also just done less than 10,000...

With mine doing the same thing, I can tell you it is definitely not my turbo. I have 2,000 miles on this turbo (freshly rebuilt ct26 w/57 trim) and it was doing it before and after putting it in.

My car does the same too. I do know for a fact that I've got a boost leak though. Fixing that in the next few days hopefully so I'll let you know if it clears up after I fix that. If anyone else has any other ideas, throw them out because I'm curious too :icon_razz

Reference on how to check codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx :)

Define "runs sluggish"? Bad throttle response? Laggy? Lack of power? Stuttering/missing? Are there any codes?

Well, thumbs up for the new connector working great, thumbs down for finding breaks on the other side of the other original connector and having to go replace that now :(. On the bright side, when I bought the connector, I got both sides, so I have the pieces, just got to pull the CPS so I can...

Just waiting for my crimpers to arrive from my buddy's place and then it's going in. I'll give you the thumbs up once it's idling ;)

It's functional hard wired, but if you need to work on the CPS, pull the head, etc etc it becomes a matter of cutting and redoing it. Do that enough and you'll likely end up wrecking the line at some point.

They found some pins that fit perfect and I've got the connector with tails coming off it now. Should just be able to crimp/solder/heatshrink and we're good to go again :)

If that's the case, how do you think Bill would feel about taking a trip to Abbotsford...lol. At least the connector fell apart at work, so I didn't need to get it towed anywhere, but it's still inconvenient. I talked to the shop foreman at the GM dealership I do some work for and he said he's...

I'll give him a call tomorrow. I guess worst case scenario I could redo both sides and replace the connector with whatever. That weather pack connector looks like your typical trailer hitch connector, would that work fine?