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None the less, absolutely stunning. I'd love to see one in real life, but I have my doubts that it will happen. On a side note, what do you think the red and black cars are that you can see little bits of in picture 5 and 6?

There's a matchmark on the cam gear itself, but yes, I believe it is straight up as well. Best to line up the matchmark on the cam gear to the one on the plate behind them.

I'd echo what Grim said. They are just ring connectors that bolt on where your lower and upper intake manifold join. Make sure they're clean and they have a clean surface to make a good connection.

You want to make sure your timing is at stock as per TSRM (link). I wouldn't adjust fuel at all until you have a wideband in place and can at the very least see what's going on with your AFRs. You will also need something to adjust the fuel with, some sort of SAFC or equivelant.

It goes to the power steering pump IIRC...if someone can chime in and confirm.

I'll confirm outlet 2" and inlet 2.75". I just tracked down a boost leak which was blowing past the very first coupler from turbo to IC pipe and was contemplating getting a new coupler if it was in bad condition (a shop had told me they suspected it was, but it was just the clamp had slipped...

Never thought of that, thanks! Does it go out of adjustement on it's own over time and if so, how often should it be checked? EDIT: If I do pull the sensor, do I have to worry about draining coolant?

Just something I'm curious about as the car's done this since I've owned it. Basically on a dead cold start, if you sit in neutral and rev to 2k, it feels like I have to "push" it to get it beyond there. I don't ever rev past 2.5k until I see 160*F on the coolant temp, so don't worry, I'm...

It won't necessarily stall, but it will go rich when shifting. You may not even notice it at all when driving, but the person behind you likely will.

ESPECIALLY don't over tighten the tensioner pulley bolt...it will deform cylinder wall #1 and start causing all sorts of fun. And by fun, I mean anguish. And by anguish, I mean death (of internals). Just don't over tighten it.

Three cheers for non interference engine design! :wavey::wave::wavey:

Go back 4 posts (#137), read, think, decide. It's a bandaid. It will only work as long as your half broken/bad connection stays half broken/bad and doesn't get fully broken.

When you sand it do it with something fairly rough (around 60 grit is what I use). Another thing I've found is taking the hard 90* edge off pads helps as well. Sand the edge down just a bit so it's got a 45* on the edge rather than the 90*. Doesn't have to be much, you don't want to be taking...

Anywhere from 10 - 13 is fairly normal. There is more than one factor in the pressure there, and since your AFM is measuring volume, the cut psi can change due to elevation, air temp, etc. Typical rule of thumb is the colder and closer to sea level, the lower the psi of fuel cut. The higher...

Leakdown test is essentially checking to see how fast pressure is escaping the cylinder. You'll pressurize it and then with the tool you can cut off the supply of the pressure and monitor the pressure drop. You'll have to get the engine in such a position that the intake and exhaust valves are...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't compression typically go down on the cylinder with a leak? 208psi also seems just way out...that's incredibly high in comparison to the others. Did/can you do a leak down test? Do you get white smoke/steam out the back? If you are in fact getting coolant...

Basically what hvyman said. A good way of looking at it is when you start hitting fuel cut you'll probably want to look at bigger injectors. The stock safety of fuel cut was put in for a reason ;). When you start looking for ways to get around it without looking at reliable supplying more...

Just to give some clarification on the picture up above, the line that goes to no where on the top left of the picture goes to the charcoal canister, the line on the bottom left that goes no where goes under the accordion hose (99% sure, someone correct me if I'm wrong). The dashpot filter...

Turbo seals will leak whether you are boosting or not if it's bad enough. I'd do the compression check, check codes, double check all your intake pipes/vacuum lines/etc, and go from there.

Even after trying to soak it up first, I don't think you'd get everything and you very well could have just had it on the threads when taking it out from residual leftovers. I'd be more concerned if it came down past the threads and on to the end.