Search results

^ Cold start injector is only used for starting. When you said vacuum is between 10 - 12, in what? InHg? psi? I look at 10 - 12 and think...wow...there's a huge vacuum leak there, but I think in InHg.

Yeah...I had the same situation with my own car. My DD needed a wheel bearing replaced and in the process of trying to get the bearing out the hub it was stuck in was destroyed...well...the bearing never was able to be pressed out, we'll just put it that way. None the less, it's my DD and I...

Only way to bring it down if it's getting that high is by adding restriction. Basically you have to deal with it if you can't take that jump forward with fuel or take steps backwards from what you've upgraded.

Usually a higher amperage alternator isn't necessary. I've got a stock alternator and was running an Alpine PDX 1.600 (600w) and MRP-F250 (200w) and had no problems with lights dimming or anything odd, even at idle. My cap was way overkill, rated for 2 farad. A 1 farad cap is usually plenty...

That behavior sounds pretty normal for the modifications to the intake and exhaust. If you want to be absolutely sure you can check for leaks. Easy process and doesn't hurt anything, so why not?

I've always seen an increase of boost when you've got a good exhaust and intake... Stock exhaust to a good 3" and downpipe usually yields an extra 2-3psi on the stock turbo, a little more on a 57-trim which is enough to put you in to fuel cut zone.

Is it just me or did anyone else see a health bar appear when they read that? :icon_razz

My car has been in this state for the last 3 years. Instead of spending a little money and potentially blowing things up, I want to save to do it properly. I can still do WOT to redline in 1st and 2nd, 3rd and higher I just make sure I control the throttle so it doesn't go north of 11psi and...

I'm not adding things up, but I would guesstimate somewhere around $15k (+ cost of car). Most of it fixing (and doing it properly!), very little of it upgrading. Though I guess fixed is an upgrade from broken...

The GE has a different style AFM than the GTE and I believe they're not interchangeable. Someone feel free to punch me in the face if I'm wrong though.

Those old Datsun's look real nice when they're all shined up like that.

LS/GS/SC400. I can't remember what the year range is though.

Do you have all your heat shields in place over the turbo/exhaust manifold? Also, is the "fire blanket" still on the underside of the hood? Hot engine bays and not having some sort of buffer under the hood can cause paint to do funny things too.

Judging from the tires being wet, it could just be condensation sitting in the exhaust and burning off. Not hard to check for BHG stuff though. Here's a few signs that COULD show it's a blown head gasket: Oil in the coolant. Pull off the rad cap and see if you can see rainbows/swirls in...

So....if one were interested, I'm assuming you'd be looking for F-104, correct? http://www.fumotousa.com/size_chart.htm I might look in to this for myself...that seems to be a pretty awesome idea! Plus one of their 2 dealers in Canada is about a half hour drive away....

It might have been included with the "yada yada", but just wanted to make sure. Add fuel pump and 550cc injectors. Also is a good idea to get a wideband to see where you're running at and probably something to make some fuel adjustments with (SAFC or equivelant)

That would make sense. Best to keep the flow going towards the turbo than having it try and make it's way back in to the engine ;). For those that might be confused still, I'll lay down an IJ quote from another thread I found...

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure on the exhaust side, you want the ports to be slightly smaller than the manifold diameter so the exhaust gases can expand as they travel out of the head.

1.) Yes and no. The GE has higher compression pistons than the GTE, good luck changing that without pulling the engine. There are some who do run with the GE pistons in a GE->T setup like what you're trying to do though. I don't know if I'd chance running the higher compression without...

Just a thought, you have anything plastic that might be a little too close to exhaust/turbo?