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Out of that whole post, this is the biggest part you should have taken from it ;).

He did, I was trying to find the post to reference it, but my search skills are failing me.

If it's the studs coming off the head to hold the actual manifold on, that's a common problem and helicoils are the best solution. It's a pain, but it is possible to do all the holes with a right angle drill and a shortened drill bit. Driftmotion sells a kit for exactly this issue.

It's not getting up to spec still, changing the oil pump will not affect what "spec" is supposed to be. The only way spec would change is if you changed the entire oiling system, which I don't even think that's possible. If it's not getting 36psi @ 3k rpm, your pressure is too low for spec...

The mode that you're thinking of is called "Speed Density", which basically takes a estimate as too the amount of air going through intake based on the air temperature and manifold pressure. An AFM or MAF is not required in this mode, but as I said before, it is still an estimate and not a hard...

First thing to do is check codes, that will give you a better idea or where to check if it's electronics at all... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx I'd also check for boost leaks, make sure all the intercooler piping is nice and tight and you've got no cracked...

Use a a stethoscope (or rubber tube, or broom handle, or screwdriver, etc) will tell you really quick where it's coming from. I'm just sayin ;)

Since we're on the topic of timing stuff, I just noticed this in the "troubleshooting" section of the TSRM cooling system. Engine Overheats, possible cause is ignition timing retarded. I thought pulling some ignition timing was better for temps??? source...

Hmmm, my bad on that. I'll have to find the post that was mentioned in and see if they had a source. Thanks for correcting though, now I know too :) EDIT: Where can you find those figures? I've taken a quick look through TSRM and can't seem to find it.

True. Didn't see him specify after boost, so I didn't think of that. I was just thinking under heavy vacuum, though to think of it decel in 5th shouldn't be super hard vacuum either.

I dunno about the vapor (charcoal?) canister, hopefully someone else can chime in on that. Bluey white smoke is a pretty good sign of oil burning up in the combustion chamber. Usually smoke on decel is a sign of valve guide seals going, but it could also be piston rings. A dry/wet compression...

225*F is warmer than I would run the car, but on the stock gauge still shows in the "acceptable" range. So basically, Toyota thought it was ok, but they also thought the head gasket torque was good too ;). You have to remember that 212*F is boiling for water, so if you're going that warm...

Take a stethescope (or vacuum line or wood stick or solid screwdriver, they all work) to your engine and you'll hear if it's mechanical pretty easily. Put it on different parts of the engine and where it's loudest is where it's coming from. Valve covers/head you can move around and even find...

^ The rule is supposed to be that the exhaust is supposed to remain stock until the last emissions system (eg, the catalytic converter). Thus enter the catback exhaust system and why they are so popular. So yes, you can get past the test readings with one good cat, but technically you are...

Will the thread lock stand up to the heat? I thought about that solution too, but ended up going with the stud upgrade. Like I said, it is possible, but you will definitely need that 90* angle drill and you need to cut the drill bit down to pretty much the length of the heli coil. I didn't...

I'd agree with hvyman, if the manifold is coming off already, do the stud upgrade. Driftmotion sells a kit for doing exactly that: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-716exhauststudkit.php If the head is still in the car it IS POSSIBLE TO DO IT. You will have to cut down the drill bit and...

Well, after it sitting for ~4 hours after a good drive, no waterfalls. We'll see for sure in the morning but it may have just been air stuck in the heater core.

Don't think it's leaking out, cause it's a pretty good rush right away and there's absolutely no loss of coolant in the overflow/radiator. I've dealt with the BHG junk before (well, cracked head, same difference), and I don't see any signs of BHG at all. It's been resurfaced and done with a...

Cooling system holds pressure fine @ 15psi. Cap is a 13psi Stant stock replacement, about 8 months old. I don't know if the nose was elevated when it was bled cause I didn't do it last, but I'll give that a shot. Haven't had any waterfalls any other time, so it would have to be pretty stuck...

Just curious if anyone else has this or what. Basically if I go for a good hour long + drive, get the coolant temp up to 195F~200F, when the engine fully cools off I get the waterfall sounds like there's air in the system. Goes away within 5 - 10 seconds and doesn't show up again (unless I go...