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I ran without it on for a bit and I must say it makes a surprising difference in valvetrain noise. I was really worried about my valves being way out after putting my head back together but honestly it was just noisy due to that cover missing. I put it back on and all was happy. That and you...

What boost pressure is it fuel cutting at? Have you checked for boost leaks with a DIY boost leak tester? 1000-1200rpm is fairly normal for warming up, what's the coolant temp getting to?

Here's what I bought: CPS Male Connector + CPS Femals Connector + 4xPins + Tails (use the large wire seal option). I did the replacement of the harness side myself, I got a buddy to do the CPS side (he's WAY better at soldering than I am and the space was tight).

I can tell you I had stock fuel with the CT26 57-trim, BIC DDP, 3" version of BIC's thunder exhaust, and 2.5" hard pipes and my car was hitting fuel cut at roughly 11.5psi and would hit that easily by 3500rpm in any gear but 1st. Having the cat in vs. test pipe helped a bit but it would still...

I got the connectors + pigtails from driftmotion. Don't forget to order the pins if you get them that way. I don't know what kind of condition yours are in, but when the engine was running if I wiggled my CPS connector I could get the engine to cut.

Checking the CPS wiring isn't a bad idea. Because of the high heat in the area around the connectors, the wires tend to get brittle and break. I had to replace both the harness and sensor side wires/connectors. When I went to do the "wiggle test" they literally fell apart in my hand...

I moved from the Supra to a celica....heh. Honestly unless you're looking at spending a little bit more money and getting a 7th gen celica the civic is a better option. The USDM celicas didn't get the 3S-GE love that a lot of the rest of the world got, so when you compare the two they end up...

As much as I loved my Supra, it definitely needed a lot of care and attention. I owned the car for just under 5 years and it spent probably 2 of those years off the road (in seperate occasions) fixing different things. I probably did half the work myself and half in shop and I was still in to...

I had no problem using factory timing. Like I said before, never had a problem with pinging or detonation. Fuel was the next thing on the list after that was done but just simply didn't get around to doing it before I sold the car. 94 octane Chevron gas ftw :D

Stock fuel and computer.

The real question is why would you want to delete the EGR? There's lots of threads on here discussing it and it really comes down to there's no real benefit. It gets turned off when you're pushing above 4k. The ECU is setup to run with it on there and it will mess with mixtures if you take it...

I was running 9.1:1 compression basically with material taken off and a 1.2mm cometic MHG for 10,000 miles with absolutely no pinging or detonation issues on 94 octane @ 11psi on a 57-trim CT26 before I sold the car. The engine has been running strong for the new owner who based on the little...

No buddies that have running vehicles willing to let you try? Have you tried the arcing battery on anything else that uses 12V? Even a test light?

You could just pressurize the intake with a DIY boost leak tester and see where it's actually leaking first. Could be something really simple. Then again if you're just looking for an excuse to change the pipes and IC.... Whatever you end up doing I'd still do the DIY boost leak tester just...

"The seats are TAN CLOTH" .... Yeah....that looks like it's tan to me....if tan is a new word for "blue". "The initial indication from our lot personnel is that the ENGINE IS MISSING PARTS AND is non functional" Hmmmm, maybe the fact that it's missing the turbo and all the intake plumbing...

Also if you want your battery to work, pull it and put it on a trickle charger. My car sat for 1.5 years doing exactly what IJ suggested by spraying inside each cylinder with some oil. I put a fresh battery in, and it fired up in 3 cranks :)

I'd take the silver as well.

^ That might not be a bad idea. Wouldn't be hard to setup data logging and would be useful if you run in to legitimate problems down the road.

I'd give the soft lines a try and see what happens from there. Shouldn't put you back too much either, they're not super expensive.

That is correct if there is no ABS. You want work your way from the furthest to the closest brake to the last "pump" (aka, ABS unit when you have it, otherwise your master). Order with ABS is Rear Driver -> Rear Passenger -> Front Driver -> Front Passenger (this is assuming a LHD car as well)...