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This may sound silly but check the bolts holding the shifter down on to the housing. Had one occasion where mine were loose and causing it to grind because the shifter wasn't seating all the way down.

It is very possible for the car to be boosting to the point of hitting fuel cut on a 57-trim, but it needs to be a very free flowing exhaust and intake. I had a 57-trim, BIC DDP, Cat-delete, and custom 3" straight back exhaust along with 2.5" IC hardpipes (stock IC) and my car was constantly...

You sir, have just been rendered unemployable by the internet. Hope you've enjoyed your stay and don't let the door hit you on the way out! lol...

It's a bit of a read, but well worth it. A story of a man who just wanted his new game controllers for Christmas... http://penny-arcade.com/resources/just-wow1.html ....and the followup.... http://penny-arcade.com/resources/an-update1.html

Just be aware that the shoes for the original park break won't stand up to that kind of abuse for long at all. Standard new thickness is 2.5mm. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=41 It was more meant to hold the car in place parked on a hill, not lock up the...

^ This. It's designed to bump up the fuel pressure to push through in case it's warm enough that the fuel is turning to vapor.

I had to let mine go a month and a half ago...was a very sad day, but sometimes that's what has to happen. I'd love to have another Supra, but it doesn't look like it will be any time soon unfortunately. On the plus side, my new DD (03 Celica GT TRD) is still peppy enough to have some fun...

A late but Merry Christmas to all of you too! One crazy weekend down, gotta get read for another now eh? ;)

Well, that would definitely rip through belts if it was off by that much. Think of all the friction on the inner wall of the pulley keeping that belt on and how many thousands of revolutions it goes through just on a regular drive, it wears fast ;)

Exactly. It's a bandaid fix so as long as you're getting a little bit of voltage, it will work for the mean time. If the existing problem were to get worse though and you lose voltage on that line completely, you're back where you started in the first place. This is also assuming the problem...

For the heck of it, try wiggling your CPS plug while cranking and see if that makes a difference. It's quite common for those wires to crack and break due to the high heat from the manifold and turbo. Otherwise you can test the coils by following the steps here...

As long as you don't see any evidence of it at all in the crank case you should be ok to drive it. Just be sure because it doesn't take much at all to etch the bearings and then you need to refresh the bottom end instead of just doing a head gasket.

That's perfectly normal. As jetjock said already, as long as it's not excessively high (above 2500rpm) and comes down to ~700rpm when warm, you're fine.

Of course that concolusion would be jumped to... Rule out condensation first. Pull the spark plugs to see if you've got coolant in your cylinders (to rule that out as your cold start miss), clean that stuff off as best as you can under the cap, valve covers, inside the PCV, etc, and then take...

Wipe off any goo under the oil cap and take it for a good 30 - 45 minute drive and see if it is there after that. If you're really concerned, you can crack the drain plug after it's been sitting for a few hours and see if you get water or oil out first (coolant/water will sink to the bottom of...

Fixed that for you, the mod doesn't fix anything.

Just giving suggestions on things to check, we can't tell you exactly what the issue from here ;). Check for cracked/broken wires all the way from the CPS itself to the connector, and then from the connector to the point that it meets up with the rest of the loom and is wrapped up and protected.

Haha, no. I know it looks a bit ricey, but all shined up it's still nice to look at. Just has TRD exhaust and TRD suspension, I might throw a cold air intake on it, but that's all that is really going to happen to it for the foreseeable future. Everything on the car at this point was ordered...

It goes bad because it's located very close to the exhaust manifold and turbo, so it soaks up a lot of heat. It's even more of a problem when people remove the "ugly heat shields" which were put there for purposes like trying to avoid cooking your cps wires ;) Check and see how brittle the...

Ah, was just looking at the "parts to buy" list and had missed the other list as I scrolled down already. Good stuff! With that kind of parts list, 325whp is a very reasonable and modest power goal in my opinion, you could get 350+ pretty easy with a 57-trim CT if you go that route.