I'd check for boost leaks first, but I can tell you a good exhaust on a stock turbo will get you up to fuel cut. My car did the exact same thing you described. I had also swapped exhausts with a buddy that had a perfectly stock car so I could get through emissions and while my exhaust was on...
If you're not going for crazy boost (like you said in your first post) stick with a stock Toyota gasket. When torqued properly with proper hardware they'll easily hold 300whp which sounds like what you're aiming for, and they are the most forgiving in terms of prep. If the surface has not been...
If you want to do some more reading here's a good thread on catch cans and routing :)
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?43167-oil-catch-can-install
Here's a thread with a lot of good info on catch cans and routing.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?43167-oil-catch-can-install
It's hard to see how yours is routed with the pics. Are those hoses and fittings all safe with oil? The fittings themselves look like they could be...
Need to answer this first. Basically if it's happening while you're in gear and decel, you're looking at pulling oil in under the high vacuum and past the rings or valve seals. I would lean more towards turbo if it's doing it even when not under vacuum.
You should also be able to tell if...
450hp at the crank would be possible, at the wheels would be pushing the limits of the fuel system pretty hard. Here's a chart that one of the members here did that gives you a rough guesstimate of what you can do with different injector sizing...
This.
Drag radials you want a fairly substantial sidewall so the tire can flex/twist to get that extra bit of surface area and grip on launch, especially when running lower tire pressures.
Most of your braking power happens at the front of the car as well. If the rears were applying the...
If you got this:
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-afprkit7m-gte.php
Then yes.
"Bypasses the j-pipe on the 7m block."
If you just got the AFPR, then you have to figure out your own lines and what you want to do with the J-tube (drill it out or bypass it completely).
Yeah, I was going to say from the video it almost looks like you're losing electrical power to the car when it jerked with how the tach dropped. Do other gauges/lights/etc turn off at all when it happens? Does it happen more when the car is cold in the morning vs. warm in the afternoon or vice...
Compression check is never a bad idea. If you want a quick idea on if your rings are absolutely shot or not, pull the oil fill cap off when the engine is just idling. If you're getting exhaust gas (aka smoke) coming out of there when you're idling that's definitely not a good sign for rings...
The list of AFM part numbers that will work:
22250-50010
22250-50011
22250-50030
22250-50031
They are from 90-94 LS-400 & 90-94 SC-400. If I remember correctly, the late 94's changed to a different AFM half way through and those will not work.
EDIT: Part number source -...
Boost leak you'd have to find on your own. Search up how to make a DIY boost leak tester and it's a very simple process and shouldn't take much time at all as long as you have access to a compressor.
Are there any codes?
Well, if there is any air in the system you will hear it in behind the dash, doesn't have to be a heater core problem.
Check for wet carpet in the passenger footwell, that's the most common place to find leakage if you've got heater core problems.
I agree, I was in for $700 getting mine professionally rebuilt....in retrospect should have just traded it in for another 57-trim (this one already was upgraded), but I needed it fast and so I got it done locally over a couple days rather than shipping back and forth.
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