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Poodles is right. You're pretty much just heating up your intake charge more if you push a stock CT26 over 14 or 15 psi. What sort of supporting fuel/electronic mods do you have to support the higher boost?

Clean up the engine bay and then take it for a drive. Should make it much easier to find where the leak is coming from.

Also, fuel cut would give you a code 34. If that's not there you can be pretty sure it's not fuel cut.

My guess would be deteriorating soft lines and junk getting stuck in there. I've seen the same sort of thing just not to the same degree of locking the brake up completely, but a partial lock up.

I'm not saying you need to move the filter anywhere. Keep it where it is, throw up some heat shields around it so you're not getting the hot engine bay air. Like so:

Cold air intake doesn't necessarily mean bends in to an obscure location on the other side of the engine bay, just simply pulling in cold air. I'd consider any properly heat shielded intake a cold air system.

I just bought one of the filter wraps for the CAI I put on the Celica, they're pretty amazing. You can put it under a wide open faucet and the filter was fine. It's got the same sort of technology as those fancy dress shirts that you can basically pour water on to and not get wet, all inspired...

I got a bare head (nothing on it) from a Cressida for $125 shipped. Engine shop was shocked by how nice the condition was for a 7M head.

Black can most definitely get mismatched. It's insane how many different shades you can have of what seems like a simple color.

Check and see if you're getting a good connection in to the coil packs on the wires. Sometimes they don't sit nicely in the socket and get a crappy connection. Also did you do the timing with the jumper in place as per the TSRM? What was the condition of the spark plugs that came out? If...

Honestly I liked not having the struts on for when I was working under the hood. You can open it wider and get in to the back of the engine bay a heck of a lot easier. Like that time I had to replace the EGR cooler gasket.....yeah.... Not saying that they're not good to have (it's also nice...

The formula is simple: (Amount shaved off head) + (amount shaved off block) + 1.37mm(the stock head gasket compressed) = New headgasket size while keeping compression ratio stock Just convert all the measurements in to mm or inches so you're working with the same numbers. And keep in mind...

Those headlight squirters work REALLY well when you turn them just slightly outward and then you if you're good, you can hit your buddy who's got his window down in the next lane ;)

"This posting has been flagged for removal." Sad day...didn't get to it fast enough.

I'd check and see what's actually wrong with the ABS first. Just in case, here's how you can pull codes from the ABS computer: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=52 Works similar to the check engine light only instead of jumpering 2 pins you disconnect 1...

Have you tried going around the motor using a stethescope yet?

This might not be a bad idea for diagnosing and confirm a ground problem too if you want to just do it temporarily.

I'd go with IJ on this one. Last thing you want to do is put everything back together and a few months later hear a loose bottom end.

While you're checking your grounds take a wire brush too them and make sure there's shiny metal touching shiny metal and not just bolted securely. Any bit of oxidization/grime/dirt/etc can make a faulty connection.

Where do you want to go after fuel upgrades though?