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That would be awesome to see (video would have been amazing!)

6-puck is a good option, but get a whole clutch kit if you're replacing it. Realize, that because of the extreme slippage that occurred on the strip, your PP is likely not good anymore. I've had brand new clutch discs slip because of a reman'd PP that didn't do what it was supposed to do. My...

If you want to do that stuff that would be fine, but you're looking at $2000 MINUMUM for an engine you will eventually abandon. Like I said before, not worh the money if you're not sticking with the 7M. Last time I'll say it- save your money and leave the 7M stock. Use said saved money to buy a...

Then in my opinion, you should leave it stock. The stock bottom end won't stay together at the power level where you'll see benefit from modding the head. Go with the Comp Cams BBC springs if the head's off, otherwise leave it together. Save that money for the engine you plan on making big power...

Replacing valves is not mild, its quite invasive(talking about oversize valves, here). For a mild build, do a nice 3 or 5 angle valve job with stock valves then do a little mild porting work. Get good springs and retainers. Uness you're aiming above 500hp, your money is better spent elsewhere...

Yep, everyone who thinks they have a 4:30 seems to have a turbo diff for some reason ;)

Indeed, that's the goal- the trans is going to be right at factory specs when it gets put together so I hope it'll be close to yours, Andy! Once I find an LSD 4:30 rear diff it'll be getting the solid spacer and Weir stage 2 spring kit. Don't want to lock it up, but I definately want both tires...

Correct! Don't ask how much work Jeremy had to do to get that thing! Also, I'm OK with waiting the week it'll take to get the MC washer ;)

Everybody wants to be like Duane, doncha know?

Transmission synchro sleeves, 1-2, and the 3-4 synchro rings are in my hands! Marlin Crawler has the order for the shift fork and thrust washer, but the washer is on backorder atm, should be rebuilding the trans in a week or so! New piston rings are in, as are the engine bearings. Head gasket...

lawls

Eh, still like my tru-boost ;) Congrats on a successful dyno day!

The AEM does do boost control, but I disagree about letting it do the boost control. I think a tru-boost/other seperate controller is a better option, since it allows you to vary the boost between different levels easily, and is adjustable on the fly. The aem can't swap boost control tables...

Guys, please don't have little local sales here in the regional sections- there have been issues cropping in the forum, up so we ask that you post all FS stuff in the classifieds section.

I know that feeling, and I wish you the best of luck on the dyno! My guess is 578 @ 23psi. :D

FYI- my injectors then were 720's.

Keep it civil in here, people.

I would say no, simply because its not a restriction, and removing it can cause issues. On my car- I had a Denso (mk4TT) pump, and a FPD removed, I (and others) had a lean spot around 2800-3200rpm and you couldn't tune it out. When I went to dual pumps with more rubber lines the issue went away...

I think the stock gears will work well for the racing I plan on doing (drag/road racing). Were it a highway car/DD that 5th would be awesome! Trans parts ordered, Head is at the porter, along with the upper/lower intake manifolds, turbo manifold, and the various gaskets he'll need for...

Junkyard would be a better option tbh. That or ebay. Its not a common part for parts stores to stock, being part of a boosted setup.