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Wow those are sweet I have an interfooler for sale if your interested

90 5.0 mustang just need to splice in the connections to the factory pigtail

I installed an AL DS a few years back everything was fine then during the winter months I swapped out my rear subframe, filled the mounts with window glue when I put it back on the road I had a nasty vibration It was a twisted AL drivshaft I only had 450-500ish HP Ive been running a rebuild...

Dont waste your time with a one peice speaking from experience here Ive gone back to the two piece and it will stay. Its a blazer or a bronco I cant remember which one

I bent mine enough and secured it to my oil return (hard pipe)

Whats up Scott its Clay

Go to your local NAPA dealer for the type you posted you dont want to much wattage they have a chart for the amount of oil you will be heating 250 is a bit to big you will bake the oil to the pan and they only cost 30-40$

great footage I just wish people would leave the music out I know you cant please everyone but Id rather hear the cars music than that "music"

Very nice I can see you have taken your time and made the fit and finish top notch, Ive seen too many that looked hacked and just thrown in keep up the great work!

Good job looks great!

get some window glue and fill up the gaps not as harsh as full solids but still compliant for everyday street use and costs 20$ I found a huge improvment over stock

Ya Tom is full of shit he said the same to me and never got any more replys this was years ago my Bro bought these a few years back But I purchesed them for him (dumb move) I had an injector come apart spilling fuel all over a hot engine the flow test may come out OK but Im not the only one who...

Wow people are still doing this. Its a supra come on

If you can feel machine marks with a finger nail its not smooth enough I confirmed this with an RA meter

Use picklex-20 to convert the rust then use zerorust as a top coat picklex-20 is user friendly and works great

Do you have a wide band I had this issue when I was running WAY to rich what fuel mods do you have ? if your running a upgraded fuel pump did you drill the j-tube? And no its not normal

If you are going to keep both which I see no problem doing so make sure the stock one is working remove it and blow through it if you can blow through it toss it in the trash.

no need for a second pump check to see if the FPR is working properly if it is I would suspect the pump the FPR acts as a controled leak back into the tank which controls pressure in the fuel rail If both those tests come back good try the 12v mod maybe the pump is not getting the voltage required.

clutch type change the fluid and add some diff additive from ford if its not to far gone this will help

this is what Im using on a resto project http://picklex20.com/