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What I did was cut a card board template that extended from the front bumper and to the back of the front suabframe it attached to the front lip same as the factory under tray it Instead of aluminium I used Puckboard (think hockey rink siding) tough enough not to make any noise at speed but...

Ill give it a shot but I just found a code I did not have when this mess started. 41 replaced with a working TPS code is still there gonna have to trace this new issue down I wanted to fix this before I parked her for the winter but winter is here in these parts -13 and 4" of snow

Ya all plugs had the same color

Rewired no change plugs were black with a bit of tan will change them out tonight One more item Im going to check is the fuel filter I have a spare kicking around even though my pressures look good Imout of ideas!

Replaced with a known good sensor no change cleaned the air filter no change Only thing left to do is the knock sensor rewire even though the code is gone Ive seen stranger from these fuckin cars arrgh and I have two Ima sucker for punishment I guess

Internal leaks would cause it to run rich no external leaks No smoke I was speaking to a coworker and thats what he asked I removed it and checked it I could see light through it (k&n) cleaned 4000 km ago Never even thought of this Ill check it out tomorrow Thanks

Wideband has been hooked up throughout the past 4 months calibrated a month ago AFRs 11s under boost 14.7 at idle leaking injector? as in fuel or o-ring leaking? Injectors are RC 550s flow tested 4000km one weird symptom is when at cruising speeds 90-100km when I let off the gas the...

No leaks in the charge pipes/couplers accordian hose no leaks swapped AFM sensors no change removed rebic no change made some new knock sensor wires up will install tomorrow

Timing was where it always was nothings changed there No cat 3"turbo back as far as the rebic its about 1/3rd on the dial after many runs this is where I got the best AFRs/and EGTs Im also going to try and dissconnect the rebic Thats what I thought Im going to check for holes in all the...

back ground info: Car was running great 11s on the wideband under WOT 16 PSI (60 trim) EGTs under WOT in all gears never got past 1450 and I had it running on the rich side where it would go down under WOT and hold steady at 1400 timing set at 8 deg diagnostic block jumpered fuel pressure...

Usually its the wires that get brittle and crack

I used a a 4 pin trailer connector and soldered it in

One thing Ive always wanted to know about this unit since its a JDM unit one would think the timing maps have been optimized for the higher octane fuel hence in the instructions it states use high octane fuel at all times, anyone have any idea what if any timing changes have been built into this...

I have two supras one has a full gt35r build lex/550 combo with the rebic LC been running this unit for the past 8 years great old school unit 12.1@124mph Supra two street build 60 trim ct26 lex/550 combo rebic LC13.1@112mph both cars have basic builds JEs,FFIM,cometic HG for the cost...

The last flight I took The damm crying kid was right behind me it was a night flight as well worst time EVER I wish I had a set then!

Ive experienced it not a fun job after you think your done and have to rip it out and tear it apart to manualy disengage the gear

Are these stock injectors? I had to make spacers for my pte 680s or else they would leak

Effects were cool liked christopher and the boy but wow what a waste of time the "best movie of the summer"? There must be some real peices of crap out there

It must be a very sensitive guage, my guage on my aeromotive does not fluctuate like that I just played with it today have you bypassed the factory fuel dampner?The FPD is a return line Im assuming been bypassed since the return line comes from the bottom of your FPR, I did not see in your post .

My neighbor a few houses down has one I was thinking the same thing one of the nicer wings Ive seen Id rock it!