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Umm, I'm not sure you've got the correct procedure there. If you are figuring out thickness, measure the deck heights of the head and block, and subtract from stock to get your extra thickness for the gasket. Do a search on here, and you'll find plenty of info on correct stock #'s. Stock bores...

I'm going through this right now. My '90 auto is getting the d/l from my '88 manual. It takes some tweaking, but it's quite doable. I had a complete '90 sacked d/l in mine though. I just used most of the stuff with plugs from the '90 motor. ie cps, water neck, '90 tb. The plugs for the tranny...

Do yourself a favor and buy a cheap beater. Fix the Supra when you can afford it and have time. Or else you'll have a miserable time in poverty & frustration land. If you are constantly under the gun to fix your dd it's not fun. Ask me how I know.

If you shop carefully, you can probably build the motor fairly cheap. There are often deals on here for used forgies and if you're going to go thru all the hassle of rebuilding, may as well build for larger hp down the road. As long as you can afford to take your time, it is cheaper. Mine took...

0.040 is alot of bore on these blocks. They are thin-walled to begin with. If you don't need to bore it, then I would'nt. I don't know the comp. ratio offhand on these Ross pistons I have, but my compression numbers aren't extraordinary with them. You do have to be careful about piston to bore...

Make sure you have a good knock sensor. If not, the ecu detects a bad value, it'll pull timing to try to avoid detonation, and that could be some of your problem.

dude, like I said, pressure test the coolant system. At least fill the rad, find out where it's leaking from. The charcoal canister is not for coolant. He's referring to the lack of bypass valve.

Congrats on new Soup. I'd replace the thermostat right away. Use a Toyota one. Pressure test your coolant system first off. Then do a compression test and a leak down test to check ringlands, valves etc. Twitchy speedo needs a new cable probably. I don't want to prematurely speculate at this...

I was told by the po my car wasn't going to cost me money. He lied. Do these tests yourself. A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. It helps to point in the direction of problems, ie ring lands, valves, hg problems etc. Check...

Nice options, too! Just the Afm, harness, and rebuildable bottom end and turbo are worth the $$ imho.

Do a compression test and a leak down to see what condition the motor is in. Learn how to work on it fast, or you'll be spending money on it. Valve stem seals aren't that hard, but it takes awhile, and you need space and tools. You can probably find a tutorial on here. gl.

Don't forget new oil squirters, and make sure the rear timing cover is on with the timing belt tensioner before they bore and deck it. (don't overtorque the tensioner either, as it will deflect the #1 cylinder out of round a tiny bit.

I thought the high setting had a resistor value as well. Please excuse my ignorance. I changed mine and it seemed to fix my problem, so I thought to eliminate it as suspect that way. However, mine was a low speed problem.

I would still suspect the blower motor resistor. Part # 87138-24030. Typically its the low speed setting that doesn't work, but it's worth a change even to eliminate it completely. They will still have continuity, but one of the components inside cooks, allowing the other speeds to still work.

did you get your cruise control working, Bounty?

thanks, I did my searching and came up with what I need, mostly. Still a little shaky on the cruise wiring...

I"m putting my driveline (manual '88 7MGTE) into my '90 Auto car. Has anyone done this? From what I've read I don't need to change anything except the cps (for diff. plug), the throttle body, and the water neck. I'll of course use the '90 harness and ecu. Am I missing anything else? I realize...

Dream on. She'll show you a little leg, take all your money, then ask for more.

Rebuild/replace the calipers, and get a brake place to flush out the system afterwards. Yota charges insane amounts for service, as we all know...I got mine flushed for $50.00 at a brake shop.

Spin all the wheels up independently and make sure they are round, unbent, and balanced. Check your tires carefully for any ballooning or torn layers. Check your front suspension components, (like inner tie rods, balljoints). Make sure your d/s and carrier bearing (if you have one) is A1. While...