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I'd replace the master and slave together. If you just do one, the other sometimes will pack it in shortly thereafter. A good place to order from is Champion Toyota in Texas. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'd start looking at the clutch itself after that. I'm pretty sure this should fix...

Thats correct, you must jumper the diag block to set the timing. I'd go 12 deg.

As long as it didn't get hot, it should be fine. At least that hose is relatively easy to get to. I'd wash or wipe the engine bay down asap though.

Check the wires from the cps to the harness side. Even if they look good, wiggle them and see if there are any breaks internally. Its probably wiring.

Had a MK II, fixed everything on it, and sold it to the first buyer that came to look at it. It was near mint, but stock. Bought an '87 n/a, fixed everything on it, and sold it to the first buyer again. (It wasn't fast enough). Bought an '88T, rebuilt it, now I'm dd'ing it, and having big fun...

somebody help me, my eyes are burning!!!!!!!!!:aigo: If I needed a fucking escalator, I'll go to the mall!!:puke:

Hey Ian, are you gonna have a section on bracket racing in your new Aussie kid's show? snicker

Right beside the windshield wiper motor there is a vsv with a vacuum hose running into the top of it. On the bottom of it is the actuator arm which can be pushed up then tied with wire or a zip tie. This will give you some heat all the time. Look for a good replacement and that should fix it...

http://www.mdcmotorsports.com/welcome_to_the_supra.htm $225 + shipping I believe

There are a couple of built cars on here for sale that seem like a hell of a deal. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably buy one like that, and go from there. People dump a ton of money and effort into these cars and can't sell them for half of what they put in. (myself included)...

n/a or turbo? Consistency is important here as well. If they are all within about 10 lbs, its encouraging. I think about 140 - 155 for turbo engines is within spec. I believe n/a's can be higher.

After going through the rebuild on my money pit, If you are going to stay with stock components, I'd use Arp rod bolts. Get the rods machined to suit, and balance the bottom end. Its probably an extra few hundred after its all said and done, but entirely worth it imho (in retrospect).

I bought a new fan clutch and it went bad after only a week. The one you borrowed might be spotty as well. I'd try a third working one before I did anything else. I finally found a "good" one, and I have no more issues with it. There really isn't much to them, I'm thinking your replacement isn't...

I went through the same problem. If you dremel out the stock clip bigger, you can put that on the "big" side of the new line, and fit another clip into the receiver groove on the new line. Sorry I don't have any pics but its fairly straitforward.