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Spent alot on a 20 yr old car, (stopped counting at 15k) but it's fun to beat new cars when you let it go. Sure would like a new triple synchro 6-spd in it, though. I can just imagine how much that'll be. Bring it on!

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213747&chapter=AMM805&appSectionid=19&groupid=10023&subgroupid=20090&componentid=60997&make=34&model=Celica%20Supra&year=1988&catalogid=1 A shop should charge no more than an hour to change these out I think. I would think...

Check your codes, abnormal turbo pressure can cause a cel. But to answer your q, no, its not normal.

Congratulations, man. Very nice numbers for a beautiful car!! Can't wait to see the 1/4 times...

I don't think Ron is making FFIM's at this point. Your best bet is probably posting in the "want to buy" section. They pop up on here from time to time.

18 - 23 mpg city/hwy. here. 550's, Aeromotive fpr, MK IV fuel pump, 60-1 turbo, foot in it most of the time. I think my n/a was worse. Not sure about air/fuel ratios till I get my LC-1 hooked up.

You just run the speed density signal, MAP sensor etc. thru the ipod dock, Dave. You didn't see that option on the Maft install sheet? Jeez.

MDC has rebuild kits for the R154... http://www.mdcmotorsports.com/products.htm Even if you pull it yourself and get a tranny specialist to do the rebuild, its probably the wtg imho. at least then you'll know its all fresh.

Other members will have advice with bearings, I'm sure. As far as other aspects of rebuild, I noticed a nice difference in throttle response after I got an FFIM in, maybe think about that? Also since you are ripping it down, why not do a mild p&p on the head.. it only costs some time with a die...

Damn straight, especially if they are tig welded, oven brazed and have extra cooling capacity. A good fin count(like 18 per inch) would be awesome as well!

Hopefully these guys still have them: http://www.makotoautotrends.com/search2-list.asp?makerID=32&modelID=188&year=1988&cat=4&sub=125

Aren't Solaras v6's? I thought they were heavy and around 220 hp, am I incorrect? I thought a boosted Supra would walk it...I guess it depends on the boost, heh

Talk to Jon at MDC or Jeff (Jtamulis), our resident turbo gurus should be able to help...

Jonathon1 is right, there is a layer of rubber underneath the stock wheel. I went with two layers of perforated leather on this. It has some cushion, not alot. It's nice in the summer, breathes good. I made a few of these, this one's a spare. I'll try the '90 project car's wheel next, while...

on their way... their we go. Pics not the best, but all I can do with camera phone.

try Jeff at Champion...http://www.toyotaworld.com/ if they don't have 'em, I guess its a Japan order. I wouldn't delete them if I was rebuilding. I didn't change mine during my rebuild, and my oil pressure won't climb above 30 lbs. For under $100 it's a bit of piece of mind.

I recovered my '88 wheel myself. It takes some work, but at least you have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I carefully cut the old leather off along the stitches and made a template out of cardboard. I went to an auto reupholstery shop and got some nice perforated black leather. After...

that is correct, 2 ignition adapters, and 3 coils. ign. adapters: part no:8912 Coils: gm 2 tower style, part no:8224

I would really fix it properly, that stop leak stuff is crap. Someone ran it through the car I bought and it was everywhere when I rebuilt it. Including all over the inside of the overflow reservoir. Yuck. It might work if its a microleak, but for something this critical, fix it non-cletus and...

I have a stage 3 in mine with roughly the same mods, but I figure it gives more room for hp increase down the road, and it feels like stock engagement to me. Although my NM shifter sure doesn't!