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It actually isn't powdercoat - I used a combination of POR-15 rust prevention paint as a base coat on everything (once sandblasted of course), followed by a coat or two (depending on application) of POR-15 chassiscoat black. They are both epoxy-based paints that end up being tougher and more...

Ultimately, that is the only way to go.

heh...yeah. It is especially bad when the car started its life in quebec...

that is one sweeet rear end.... all ready to bolt on to the car - I just have to finish a bit of undercoating and on she goes.

um... edit: well done mods.

where'd you pick it up? I really need to get one to keep all of the dust out of my interior.

I've got a set sitting in my basement....I must say they look damn fine! It is too bad trim is so expensive....I mean, I still bought it, but damn is it pricey for little pieces of plastic that are easy to f-up during installation (specifically, the 1/4 window mouldings)

I love the underbody color combination with the subframes and the suspension arms - you realize detailing the car will now involve a hoist, don't you ;) Great work...when do you expect to completely finish? (My target date was a week ago....new target is next spring)

Picked up the differential today....rebuild cost more than the damn transmission...

If they don't go that short, disassemble them, cut the threaded rod the desired amount, and re-assemble. The position of the sway bar doesn't really matter as long as there is enough clearance between it and the suspension components during operation.

It was more of an electronic control issue rather than the injector itself. Modern control systems can fire the injector upwards of 17 seconds per combustion event - Apparently the new duramax diesels no longer have the typical "knock" due to improved fuel control. Either way, if you can make...

diesels burn a charge designed to ignite under pressure (unlike gasoline....comparing detonation of the two is like comparing apples and oranges) The fuel is also injected near the end of the compression stroke, so the timing can be controlled, and stresses minimized.

yep, no detonation. A controlled explosion doesn't stress parts the way detonation (sharp, powerful, uncontrolled explosions) does.

additional sheet metal, welds, and body filler (the outer fender well was brand new, so it provided a good surface to weld to.)

see post 88...yes I did.

a few freshly manufactured parts: Fuel pump hanger w/ 1/4NPT to -6 fitting brazed to the hardline Rear suspension endlinks (standard threads FTL)

work vs-xx?

yeah, some Dijon ketchup

I'm planning on using one trasko, one wix. What size oil cooler would be ideal for -8 line? thanks for the help by the way.

Sorry, my bad. I am going to be using a N/A stud, running -8 line from the filter adapter to a dual filter mount, then to a mocal 180F thermostat, then to a cooler (possibly earls or mocal) - and of course all necessary return piping...