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It's a replacement for the whole assembly. Stick in place and it's a decent cup holder. (That's my car in the photo. :D )

If that wasn't clear enough... 3000 RPM 1st gear: 18mph 2nd gear: 31mph 3rd gear: 46mph 4th gear: 60mph 5th gear: 80mph. If you know one gear, then the change in the gear ratios will give you the change in speed.

The shifters themselves cross-install, FWIW.

Well, if that is the case, then the before/after dynos showng gains worth the price tag, upgrading only the intake manifold should exist, right?

I would think that there are easier ways to make about any intercooler fit, but okay. Easier access to the engine bay, I suppose, but I figure that the payback time for the work it takes to install the FFIM would be a very long one. Less IC piping, okay, but what does that REALLY gain you? I...

So what would a larger plenum mean in terms of power? Would that not negate the few ms lag decrease that people credit to a shorter intake tract? come to think of it, the 7M-GE intake manifold is a larger plenum as well, seeing as how it has the "Y" pipe after the throttle body. That's not an...

I still haven't seen any evidence that changing the intake manifold to a FFIM makes any actual power gains. Lots of people have posted gains, but they always change more than just the intake manifold when they do so.

No, 24.89" is the diameter. I multiplied it out to a circumference of 78.10"

Or, just look at the stickies in this section. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?155789-This-Is-Why-A-JZ-Manifold-Cannot-Be-Used-On-A-7M

Well, you could take the knowns and calculate easy enough. R154 5th gear is a 0.75 ratio. The rear end gears are given at 3.727:1. The tire diameter is 24.86", and engine RPM is 3000. 3000 RPM is 180,000 revolutions per hour at the crank. 0.75:1 ratio through the R154 gives the driveshaft...

Most BOVs can have a recirc fitting on them. I have a recirc fitting on my HK$ SSQV for this reason. (Plus, I don't like the noise. I don't like idiots in Civics thinking that I'm racing them when I shift at 2500 RPM.)

I know it's an 8mmX1.25mm bolt holding the pickup bracket, FWIW. Edit: I checked the thread on the stud that I'm using and it's 1.25mm thread. Had it wrong.

If you are milling material from your hubs, I would have to say that you'd need different hub centric adapter rings for your wheels as well, or else you'd have to depend on centering on the lugs, which isn't a great idea.

If I could do that, there'd be no whining here either. I can't because a previous owner was an idiot who hacked off the factory wiring harness, and put in a crappy deck. It was also wired in poorly, with the power antenna line being crossed over to accessory power. My '89 is like that, since it...

Some upgraded CT26 turbos also have the exhaust wheel clipped which will slow spool. Clipping the exhaust wheel is supposed to allow for higher flow at the top end, and reduce/prevent boost creep.

Mine's also trashed... but I'll just connect up the aftermarket one to it. And whine about it occasionally. :p

There's silicone all over the place in mine. I've got new seals on my spring shopping list.

I replaced the dead power antenna in my 1990 today. Installed a $20 generic Princess Auto power antenna in its place. Removed the portion of the 3 piece spoiler: Pulled the power antenna. 10mm wrench to pull the mount nut, and a pair of slip-joint pliers to get the nut at the top. Here's the...

I thought that the bolts to the dash were M5, not M6. M6 would have a 10mm head, and these use an 8mm head.

Bare minimum? Less than what you mentioned, but I don't think that a bare minimum is a good idea. These blocks are all 20+ years old, regardless of mileage. If you're sending the block to the shop to get the block (And lower timing cover, of course) decked, then I'd also get the cylinders...