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A piggyback will get you most of what you want, but my research seems to indicate that there are other limits with your setup which would require more precise tuning to get there. With a MAF-T Pro, you no longer use the Lexus AFM. (Well, or you can, but it doesn't matter if it's the Lexus AFM...

No, the Mk4 Denso pump is NOT the same as the Walbro. It's better, and it connects up just like OEM. Don't set fp with vacuum on, because then it will vary with cold/warm idle, and whatever RPM your ECU thinks that it needs at that time. Always set with the line off, then you get more...

I think that the OP is asking about the rain gutters on the sides. The ones on my '90 are pretty bad with silicone, too. <grumble> You can ask at the dealership, or auto glass places, which also can often get them (Though they may not be genuine Toyota parts) The seals are easy enough to get...

For a gauge pod to correctly fit the column, $100 isn't bad at all. I wouldn't pay that much myself, but that's because I'd fabricate something for my own car. There are a number of generic pod options which can be made to look pretty decent with a little effort, too.

Compression "jumped" in #1. Probably rings are a contributing factor there. In 2-6 compression came up a bit. This is more likely just a faster rotating crank due to better lubrication. #6 compression is awful, there's something else wrong there. That's either a BHG, hole in piston/broken ring...

I had over half a million kilometers on my 7M-GE. The guy who bought it from me put in a new timing belt and valve stem seals, and dropped it into a Mk2. Factory head gasket, factory head bolts, torqued to 72 ft-lbs. During the time that I've been driving a 7M powered Supra (About 14 years)...

The speedo in my '90 was doing some odd stuff when it was really cold, accompanied by a buzzing noise. It would spin up a more or less random amount. It only did so while cold. As I said though, if you remove the speedo from the instrument cluster, there's a lever which adjusts the tension on...

We hope that the oil "has nowhere to go" except to seal around the piston rings. The point is to see if you are getting low compression numbers because your rings are leaking or if the problem is elsewhere, like the valve seats, or head gasket.

If you replace the windshield with lexan, your car is no longer legal for street use.

Any junkyard engine is unreliable, and even the "low mileage" JDM engines are still junkyard engines. By now too, they're 20+ year old junkyard engines. There's also going to be a reason why they're in a junkyard. Generally well maintained cars aren't exactly the mainstay of the junkyard...

The capacitor won't hurt, but isn't really needed. The fuel pump isn't a variable load, so it won't cause problems for the amplifier. Depending on what you listen to, however, the amplifier may cause issues with the fuel pump. The pump itself may "whine" a bit, but the internal capacitance on...

I shake my head at you... The 60-1 that you have should pull like mad, more than enough for your stated power goals at the very least. Spend a lot less money figuring out why it isn't, and it'll be better for both your car and your budget. Suprasport also has the Boss Sr series turbo, which...

If the cylinders were honed and the rings are new, the leakdown may not look as good as it could, since the rings won't be seated. If the engine is out of the car, you can at least verify that it has the mls gasket. You can probably tell if the engine has been hot-tanked, so then at least you...

Alphabet soup translation: SAFC: Apexi additional fuel controller. A piggyback computer for adjusting the AFM signal. (Yes, if you have this, you don't really need the Lexus AFM to run larger injectors, since it will alter the AFM signal by itself.) I don't think that this is needed in order to...

Well, I'd remove the line as I described above, since the OP believes that it leaks. Seal off the fuel rail with a shorter bolt, because it's fuel, and I really don't want that leaking outside of the engine. I'd still seal on the injector itself, since if it's leaking, it's a vacuum/boost...

Well, consider that "cold" really means anything where the coolant is not at operating temperature. Even on hot days, the engine is still "cold" when you start it. You will have some hard starts. If I were to do this, I'd plug the line at the fuel rail, and cap the line on the injector itself...

I'd be putting in my mouthguard if I drove it. There's nothing like going to put in the clutch and dropping the brake pedal on the floor instead. (Have a friend with the same car as my wife's, but automatic. Went to shift and got a face full of steering wheel.)

It'll be fine with an NA. Catbacks fit either one. After swapping in my 7M-GTE, I kept the catback that I had for the NA until I got my Tanabe. So from that, you can see that the catback fits to either catalytic converter, and that the body mounting points for the NA are the same as for the...

See if the diagram on the TSRM page FA-21 is any help. I'd guess from the diagram that the concave washers were actually flat at some point. Maybe over-torqued?

I was considering a JDM motor in order to work on the build while having a driveable car. Instead though, I just bought a cheap 7M-GTE to build without pulling my motor. One "advantage" that a JDM motor may have is that it's less likely to have been taken apart and machined before. Well, maybe.