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If you want to keep all the parts in one piece, its not an easy job. But here are the steps to get it done. Rear studs http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=7 Front studs http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=9 You may be able to find...

I would find a way to put the ac back in. Targa on or off, sucks when its too hot, without ac.

Are both heater hoses, as hot as the rad hoses?

The small pump is making no pressure, its just moving fuel. The large pump makes high pressure on a large area. What makes pressure? A restriction to flow. Therefore the small pump can "out flow" the large one, because of the different jobs they have. Also the return from the high pressure...

Just tighten it. It will seal. Do you have a line wrench?

If the pump failed, wouldn't you still be able to get it out of park? Or am i missing something here?

Same here, didnt seem right, but seals nicely.

Read this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=18 Yes.

If you remove or unplug the sensor the light will not illuminate. Unless you pull the e brake. No other ill effects, thats its only purpose.

Why do you say that?

If you cant get it out of park, its a linkage issue. There is mechanical linkage to disengage the parking gear. Has nothing to do with fluid. Did you open the transmission? Why was the torque converter replaced?

The ecu does not signal the starter. Not a ecu issue. yet. The car has to crank over, before you start worrying about ecu and fuel pump issues. When the fuel pumnp turns on, depends on how the swap was wired.

GVWR is the total weight with all passengers, full fuel, and max allowable weight in trunk, put together.

Its called 12263-42010, and you can get it at toyota. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1201&P=2

When you look at a TPS on an oscilloscope (which graphs voltage), as you open the throttle and monitor TPS voltage, there should be no jumps or dropouts in voltage. If you move the throttle smothly the voltage should change smoothly. Digital volt meters make this sort of diagnosis difficult, if...

Does it wiggle when you grab the wheel at 9 and 3, or when you grab it at 12 and 6?

What does that mean? Does the starter turn the motor or not? It cant be both.

Can you get the car in neutral? Can you engage park? The torque converter will fill up if you keep the level correct.

You are sure the pimp is getting 12v at all times now?

Put the poor thing away for the winter, already.