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thanks a lot! The car you guys snagged looks pretty solid, you probably couldn't ask for a better starting point. It also sounds like you guys have some good engineering and fabrication support, which will go a long way with this car. Good luck with the build

Reading some of the comments in this thread regarding what "you" do in certain situations is making me realize who actually "does that". I have to say I've read some stupid, dangerous reactions/retaliations to other bad drivers in this thread. With that said, there is nothing I enjoy more than...

a tt corvette? do stolen cars count as being free or something?

notice the wink? damn, e-sarcasm is tough to get across.

uh...if they're stock, they are aluminum. if they are steel, chances are they are painted black....or on a ford. if you are confused by the above and you get desperate, use a magnet.

heh. what does VE have to do with making power ;)

lol, no. to the original poster, there are several reasons you could have burned a valve, carbon build-up, bending, improperly machined/installed seat, running excessive egt's before the valves seated (if you recently re-built), etc. edit: I couldn't see the pictures at work, you've got some...

I very much agree. Perhaps it is time to take up a second language not plagued by "words" such as u, y, and wat.

is it seriously that hard to use a fucking H?

I bet those stiffen things up a tad...would be a bitch to put into a daily driver though.

I've got the tanabe springs on my car, haven't quite gotten around to driving it yet though. I'm using apex'i struts.

Because that is what Toyota put there, and in my experience, I've found the black oxide bolts to rust relatively quickly. Also, most don't know this, but on nearly all new bolts from Toyota, one of the captive washers has a wave in it, which provides some additional preload on the bolt (more...

This is true, "cad" is a bit of a misnomer - the bolts are actually zinc dichromate plated...most still refer to them as cad though.

ah, fair enough. For me, if it isn't cad plated, it doesn't go on the car.

You would not believe how hard it is to find bolts for these cars (cad plated, with captive washers). My best advice is to hunt through the EPC and find the part number of a bolt and order a bunch from Champion Toyota. I've done this with the M6X1 bolts (which is by far the most common bolt on...

sounds like it. If you have any wobbling of the needle at all though, I would suggest changing both. IIRC, the speed signal is sent to the ecu and low speed driveability can be negatively affected by a sticky speedo cable.

To get the body done it cost $5k (paint, labor, etc) plus ~$1200 for replacement body panels (hatch, rear quarters, rear fender wells)

I figure the engine and interior should be able to take care of that...otherwise, I can still take it down another 1"

Yep, thats the old man's car. Not too shabby for an NA V6.

Springtime is here, I finally got around to installing a bunch of small things. ARZ 4-piston front kit: MK4 rear brakes sans rotor: More to come shortly.