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I suggest you should check the calibration of your torque wrench....22 lb-ft is not a lot of torque, and is nowhere near the tensile limit of those bolts. Are you using different bolts? I doubt you could break off a bolt using a phillips bit.

go for white. black/gunmetal wheels look like winter wheels imo.

didn't know about the oil/oil, but it makes sense. You learn something new every day.

All shocks do that. The spring handles the compression, while the shock simply dampens the compression/rebound of the spring. If the shock compressed and rebounded instantly, then it might be blown. Otherwise, they are fine.

In the few days I was over there, I was surprised how many LHD vehicles I saw...must be the same sort of thing as RHD over here...however, I'm not sure why somebody over there would import a mid-90s V6 thunderbird.... Anybody notice the snow tires on the supra with the metal undertray?

I've got an 89+ (LHD) rack rebuild kit if you want (I just ended up buying a new rack instead of going through the trouble of rebuilding)

Unbolt from the hub using an impact wrench or a large breaker bar, and use a hammer to knock the ball joint out...seriously, the ball joints are one of the simplest parts to change on this car. Be sure to torque as per TSRM.

originality for the win. good looking car.

Found that out pretty quickly after attempting to tear down my subframes. All the penetrating oil/heat/impact i had couldn't loosen any of my cam bolts - the only solution was cutting them off (followed by new bushings).

or just get yourself some MKIV tt rear brakes and have a machine shop make you some mounting hardware/rotor spacers. (It cost me under $500, and the e-brake is functional)

It is probably a design change. Think of it this way, if you are getting chased by somebody to your car and open your door, you don't want the other popping open so somebody can hop in the passenger side.

The steel around the windshield is extremely thick...unless it is pitted quite badly, it should be fine.

That is the other way to go about things - I was contemplating doing this to avoid any potential interactions between the ISC circuit and the idle speed control on the throttle body.

that was an oversimplification. The thermostat/actuator (circled in the picture) pushes the throttle plate closed when operating temperature is reached (I assume...as it is connected to the coolant lines). If you have a q45 tb at hand, it is pretty obvious how it works.

generally, yes.

body work done right is not cheap. if there is rust on the outsides of the rear quarters, chances are the rear wheel wells are rusted through. If you're lucky, the driver side floorboard won't be rusted through....see the thread in my signature - that car had 236K kms when I bought it from...

did you calibrate the TPS when the engine was warm, or cold? Do you have the coolant lines hooked up to the TB? The reason I ask is that, when the throttle body is sitting at ambient conditions, a thermostat-like actuator keeps the throttle plate open a tad. When the engine warms up, the...

Here are a couple UOAs from my daily driver. While not supra related, they are rather interesting. Jdub helped me out in figuring out what was going on and indicated that I should post my results as they might benefit others in similar situations. The car is a 2002 maxima with a VQ35 engine...

JT2MA71 = Turbo JT2MA70 = NA Edit, if the next letters are J or N, it is a targa.

I had one of each (two hardtops if you count my parts car)...so, I vote not rare.