Your front subframe isn't grimed up is it? Maybe check your inlets on the exhaust manifold for oil? But then again, you'd see the smoke probably if that was the case... Rear main seal? look around your tranny. Did you check the spark plug galley when you replaced your valve cover gaskets? Look...
Chuck the JDM gauge, it is not compatible with the USDM MKIII at all, that's why it's acting like it is. pull your EFI fuse and crank over for a few long bursts and you should see the needle start to build presure. Removing the spark plugs will help with it cranking over faster.
I recomend not boosting until you OIL is up to operating temps, not you coolant. Give it 15-30 mins AFTER the water temp is up to operating temps to be safe. You want the oil to properly lubricate the turbo and engine, it will not do as good of a job until it is up to temp ;).
Oh it will be pretty damn soon if you don't replace the rod and main bearings along with the thrust washers ;). Coolant in your oil eats the soft bearings up pretty quickly. Do a search on, "hey I did my HG repair, now I have rod knock".
Keep a 190 degree t-stat in it, you can rebuild you fan clutch for cheap as peice of mind, you need 1 50mL bottle of 3000wt. (I think) silicone differential gear lube for RC cars, make sure it's not the shock fluid (Mugen is a good brand to go with)...
A little searching never hurts buddy, I don't feel like spoon feeding at the moment, but a previous poster had said that he had posted the solution to this problem a few other times already, so yes, the answer to your question is out there. Here, I'll set you on the right track...
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