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V160 is pointless unless you're also throwing a 2jz in it..Still not worth it though.

You might have to use the metal round universal bleeder.

Congrats Figgie. This reminds me, I need to update my resume sometime. Will be graduating in December and have NO IDEA what I want to do. Anyone need a new manager? :biglaugh:

What?

^ That's what I was going to say. Re braze it, don't weld. Make sure you put a nice piece of metal between and engine so you don't heat it and to catch any dripping solder. It might be a pain because when you heat the pipe it will probably melt the solder between the bracket and pipe and drop...

Those specs are for the original assembly of the motor by Toyota and chances are the crank/rods are not within those limits anymore; Especially if machine work has been done to the engine before. As long as the crank doesn't need to be ground down, get the standard Cevites and plasigauge them to...

OP- I dunno, but whatever is in the bowl next to your Mountain Dew looks delicious!

I'll take the t70 off his hands..Seems he won't be needing it any longer.

This is a brand new unit from Springfield Armory. It was partially extracting and jamming against the bolt. It didn't happen every time, probably 1 out of 5 it did though..Had to wack the OP rod with a rubber mallet to get it to eject. I just took the gun down and cleaned everything I could...

Hey now...I was around to see when this first went down and I haven't reposted it. :biglaugh:

Camera man is lucky he didn't take a rod to the face!

Another way you can tell if the motor is at TDC if you u suspect the crank pulley has slipped is the woodruff key on the crank itself will be at the 12 o'clock position. But make sure the number one piston is up as IJ has said first. At least it's this way on my motor.

Where did you guys ground the battery in the back? I know proper ground should be the engine block but I don't know about running 2 wires the length of the car.

I would definitely wrap that manifold if you're going to run it that way. Or buy a universal dipstick with the longer flexible tube.

I should also come on when you pull the outside handle when the door is locked.

I've been trying to decide this for myself on my white car. I was thinking of doing it reverse..painting the moldings white and making the "supra" and "turbo" gray.

Paycheck from work and a 32" Panasonic flat screen and some clothes.. I'll be buying my Supra some christmas presents here in the next day or so.

To fill in a few deep gouges in my bumperxs I used a 2 part epoxy I got at the local auto parts store. Comes in a 2 tube syringe, have to let it cure for 24 hours and is a bitch to feather in to the rest of the old yellow toyota plastic.

Negative..That elbow is huge on the inside compared to the stocker and doesn't have the big wall in front of the wastegate flapper. Take a look at the stock elbow and it will be pretty obvious.. My car came with a full 3" DP, no neck, and a stock elbow. Replacing the stock elbow with a LIPP...

If you want to solve the BHG for good(maybe) you will need to get a multi-layer steel gasket which requires the head and block to be machined for it to seal correctly. To get the head and block machined, both will need to be disassembled. It just kind of depends how far you want to go. I'd...