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Studs get threaded all the way into the block. Bolts get threaded in until theyre tight. So studs take advantage of maximum holding force. Hand tight means hand tight. Dont over think it, just thread them in till they stop.

Everything bolted to the motor and trans (except for the alt), the wiring is in the engine harness.

You said you had an auto engine harness.

There are connectors near the starter, that need to have a custom harness made. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?76198-5sp-swap-my-thoughts&highlight=5speed%20swap

Talking post '96 cars here...Not sure how mazda does it, but toyota gas caps are not designed to let air in or out. The evap system takes all these duties. Also they build their nests in the charcoal canister vent line, has nothing to do with the actual fuel delivery system.

Come again?, but in english this time.

The EGR had a temp sensor, and it expects to see a rise in temp when the valve is opened. I have also noticed all OBD1 toyotas with this system to test the valve operation, takes a very long time to actually set a code. That means the light will not turn itself off until it passes this monitor...

I bet your hitting fuel cut, and the RPM readings are correct. The 7m 1jz and 2jz all use the same 6cyl rpm signal.

Ten month old spark plugs, on a stock 2j do not need replacement.

Legally you need to have someone with a machine remove the freon. They might pay you for what they remove. R12 is worth like $50 bucks a pound, and there should be like 2.5lbs in there. EDIT: yeah what he said^

I was thinking it was put together by toyota, and they NEVER have trouble with rings sealing from the get-go. At this point its anyones guess whats going on inside that motor. What did you pay, and why was he selling?

The synthetic is fine, keep running it. Want some advise? Re-torque the head. EDIT: Just eight days ago you said you bought a car with a blown motor, so this one is rebuilt? Here I thought you had a gem.

Air powered floor jacks dont sound safe to me, unless they have some sort of mechanical ratcheting safety system also. But then your back to, why not use a regular hydro jack. I dont know if you have used one before, but there are jacks that rise very quickly until they reach the load, then...

^QFT, same goes with the Driftmotion 1jz kit. If you notice there are almost no conveniently available mounting locations. So your options are, bend up some funny looking oddly shaped brackets, or do some welding.

Its also no longer rising rate with boost. How did the dyno go? Get the AFRs in check, or better yet HP #s? I find your setup intriguing.

It was designed to be a machined fit, not a pressed fit. Corrosion or tool marks sometimes make it more difficult to remove. If you clean up both the pulley and crankshaft, youll notice it will slide right on, then immanently back off again without issue. Almost all Toyotas are this way, the...

The hot side has a clamp much like a v-band, and the compressor has a giant c-clip. Remove both housings and position the center section however you feel necessary. Note, the housings will need some persuasion for removal.

The game gear was the only gaming system I ever owned. Back in that day it was the shit, color and all. But I never have been much of a gamer.

I dont get it, you put in high octane fuel, and pulled timing. High octane fuel (no matter what type) does not automatically produce more power. Pulling timing looses power. Please enlighten me on where this new found power is coming from. Another thing on E-85 dont you have to add like 20%...

Cool dude, your next mod should be to remove the loose nut behind the wheel. Your car will thank you for that one.