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Not removing the driveshaft is ok for short distances, but for longer distances you need to remove it. What happened in your situation is a prime example as to why, but among that, it keeps your odometer from racking up miles you're not actually driving the car and keeps the wear and tear off...

The Walbro should be a flow-through filter, meaning if it's not on, you should still receive fuel. The Paxton kit for my truck came with a walbro inline, and I STILL have that thing in the loop but not powered on....I get plenty of fuel just fine (blower's been off the truck for a few years now).

Yeah, I knew about the steel plate (instructions even mention that...lol), but it's how to get the gauge oriented to read the lift.

Ok, so I'm looking to degree my cams tomorrow after not being able to last weekend, and I'm having a bit of an issue. I know I have to mount the fixture and gauge so that the tip of the gauge rests on the bucket face, but I'm not exactly sure how this is accomplished with the cam lobe taking up...

I've used Teflon paste before and it's sealed the drain plug with no leaks.

Yeah, that's kinda spendy -- cheapest I found 'em was about 180 per gear about 7-8 months ago. I lucked out and got my Titans SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper...

My N/A was fun, pullin' in 3 and 4 were the best when running through the gears (ratios were perfect with each other), but when I bought my Turbo....there's no going back for me.

Not bad, but I've heard mixed reviews for the Fidanzas and AEMs.

Actually, they can be pretty spendy for a set of decent ones. Not compared to other performance parts obviously, but still can be pretty spendy.

If you figure it out, I've got an extra set of stock gears if you need 'em.

New cat is about $100 bro...

If you're near Denver, I'll let ya ride in mine when I get it back on the road here soon and let you decide... :sarcasm:

PWN3D by the TSRM....lol. Nah, didn't take it out the front..I took the filter out from above (on the GE motor) -- from the engine bay. The remote mount is mounted to the frame where the bumper slides in...there's a grouping of holes there, 2 out of 3 are the perfect distance for the remote...

Don't tell me that shit.... :cry:

weird....lol.

I went through this several years ago with my brake caliper on my truck -- snapped an ez-out off in the bolt. There are two things that will make a dent through that ez-out....carbide-tipped drill bits (not to be confused with cobalt bits) and a tungsten cutting bit for a dremel. When you get...

Funny you should say that, I've snapped a couple....lol. Seemed easier to break than the corkscrew type.

The first time I changed the oil in my old N/A 7M, I fought under the car for over a half an hour trying to figure out how to get the damn oil filter off....then right before I gave up, I was looking down into the engine bay and had an epiphany -- I just reached down and unscrewed it....LOL...

If done right, it'd actually look clean and not 'ghetto'....*shrug*

Couldn't you just notch the under cover where the IC is? Basically have a slot cut out of it that fits the corner of the IC.