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Ok, that was helpful...

Yeah, he's got a Mustang Dyno -- he's listed on Mustang's site IIRC. Yeah, back when I first moved down from Fresno, I had him dyno my truck...was like $40 for 3 pulls IIRC...but dunno if that's his going rate, or if he hooked me up. I've dealt with him a couple times, he put the cat in on my...

Make a jumper pigtail from a wrecker -- plug the pigtail into the AFM, and secure the other end out of the way....leave harness unplugged....looks like the AFM is plugged in, and you'll pass visual. :bigthumb: There's no OBD scan for our cars, so all they can do is visual and sniffer/rollers.

Nah, I smogged mine in Vegas...that's where I had my vehicles registered. I've got a buddy in Ventura that found a smog shop that'd overlook visual most likely...he overlooked his Intake manifold, Long Tube Headers, etc on his R/T....lol.

Why do you have to have an AFM out there -- because of visual on emissions?

DynoJets are FAR from accurate. They have a free-spinning roller, so they'll gauge the HP higher....real popular with 'Dyno Queens'. Mustang Dynos (Mustang Brand) are more accurate, because they can actually apply a load to the drum and simulate real-world driving. They're better for tuning...

IIRC, our cars have 2 antennas plugged into the factory HU -- FM, and a smaller AM one. Aftermarket decks just have the provision for the FM antenna, so the AM cable just stays unplugged. If the antenna is staying half-way up, then the power wire (in the harness) isn't connected, or the motor...

I never could find a EWD either, so I bought a paper copy from Toyota back when I had my '87....still have it in a box somewhere...

Mine was supposedely set to 10lbs by the PO (just like my car had a ported head...grumble), but I've seen about 13-14lbs before boost cut...and I haven't touched the thing...LOL!

Easiest way -- pull the motor and put it on a stand. Plastigauge the bearings, and inspect them for excessive wear/scoring. It's really easy to replace the bearings themselves, but pulling the motor is a bitch. There's a write-up on here somewhere about dropping the lower crossmember and oil...

ya must've missed the part where he said the PO destroyed and 'rigged connectors on the old harness... OP -- I saw a thread in the 'for sale' section for a pretty much new yellow plug 5sp harness for a decent price.

Boost Lee had one for sale, dunno if it's sold or not....look for a thread in the 'For Sale' section with 'MDC 4" Exhaust' in it...might be a couple pages back now.

Correct. But, what I'd recommend (and what I've done) is find a shop that will flange a cat for you when you do your exhaust. Then, come smog time, you can go from test pipe to cat in about 10mins, then back again afterward. So far though, I've left the cat in mine...it's WAY quieter, and I...

What size is the test pipe? If it's a 3" test pipe, redo the exhaust...if it's a 2.5" (or whatever stock exhaust size is), you could find a shop that'll flange the stock cat...then you can swap them out. Although, most will tell you to just do it right and redo your exhuast from the downpipe...