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Cool, good to know.

Shit, I just installed one on my motor...lol.

I got mine off of ebay, roughly $50 shipped (give or take).

I didn't either until I was recently corrected on that...lol. Seriously, why chance it over $50 or less?

That's ok, I just got boned by Fed-Ex today -- missed the driver by literally minutes, called the 800 number and asked to have the driver contacted and I'd meet him wherever he was....bitch on the phone told me that she "had no way to contact that driver".....WTF???? On top of that, I offered...

I was always under the impression that you put the good tires on the non-drive wheels (whether front or rear) and rotate the good but used tires to the drive wheels....but then again, I never claimed to be right...lol. Good to learn something new.

I was in the same frame of mind -- didn't want to deal with break-in. Unfortunately, once you remove the pistons and rings from the cylinders, it breaks the seating. Even if you rehone the cylinders and reuse the old rings, there's a 99% chance they'll never seat anyway. I bought my NPRs...

Clevites are extra machine work, it's a bit cheaper and easier to match the index numbers on the bearings and replace with factory ones.

Don't kid yourself dude -- if you're decking the block, then the pistons are coming out. This GUARANTEES that you'll need to rehone the cylinders and put new rings on the pistons...trust me, I JUST went through this. It doesn't matter if there's cross-hatch still in the cylinders....the walls...

I learned my lesson on that one -- if the pistons leave the block, then re-ringing and honing the cylinders is MANDATORY.....

Speaking of clutches (sorry to threadjack) -- before I slap my motor and tranny back together, I'm going to be using the original clutch and flywheel from when I pulled it. Do I need to resurface the flywheel, or will it be ok since I'm matching it back up with the same clutch disc?

Just remember, that was for a full set of crank AND rod bearings.

Could be that the clutch is broken in...it'll lose some of that 'grabbiness' after break-in. Also, it'll depend on your driving style -- you ride the clutch too much, and you'll wear it out faster and/or glaze the disc/flywheel over, causing it to not grab as hard.

First, why would you want to overdrive your accessories? Second, due to the size of the pullies, any parasitic loss reduction will be minimal at best. Personally, I think underdrive/overdrive pullies are a waste of money...any hp gains is minimalistic (practically none), and they generally...

FWIW, I think I paid about $250 for all my crank and rod bearings from the dealership...but then again, I have a hook-up. I'd check prices with Jeff at Champion, $388 sound REALLY steep...typical stealership mark-up.

Cracked head or block?

I'll admit, there are some nice cars worth the asking price, but there are also a lot of ragged-out cars that the owners are asking too much. I just don't want to see the whole 'sink 60k into my car so I'm going to ask 65k+ for it' thing happen like in the Mk4 world. Now that's obviously a...

If you take the proper precautions, no, the motor won't rust. Obviously, don't leave it outside in the elements; keep it indoors, cover it, and if you're really paranoid, wipe a coating of oil in the cylinders to keep moisture off the metal. If you're going to store it for a long time after...

I've noticed a lot of Mk3's touting pretty high sale prices -- almost seems like the Mk4 bug is bleeding over into the Mk3 world.