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I'm not sure of the wire path through the car, but there's a 2 wire plug that comes off the transmission to attach to the harness. Maybe it got damaged. I wish I could point you in the right direction on this website, but the wiring will be there somewhere...

Thanks! That makes me feel better about installing my main seals dry.

Are axle seals on the diff supposed to go in dry or with grease in the inside lip? I'm getting conflicting results with main seals. Apparently newer Teflon ones go in dry, but others don't.

I bought the kit without the turbo for my 1JZ. The manifold fit was a bit wonky and only 11 out of 12 nuts were able to be fitted. But the manifold did go on with minimal issues. The replica wastegate worked sort of. Seemed to open earlier than it should. I got a Tial replacement after a few...

The main issues I had with mine were blown turbo oil seals and the cooling tube insert into the back of the head leaking. The leak was "fixed" with JB Water Weld since you can barely contort your arm to reach it. I have occasional IAC issues too like everyone. I've replaced the front and rear...

Is anyone familiar with diff oil seals for the half-shafts? The only ones Autozone had look like a metal ring with a rubber insert for a 1989 diff. But for a 1987 diff it looked completely rubber on the outside. I have a 1989 3.73 LSD. Are the two seal types interchangeable? Or is there a...

I've only noticed it a little. Occasionally, my rear view mirror goes blurry and that's what tips me off to it. I'll need to drive around to pinpoint the RPM. I drive around at 40-50 most of the time and don't notice it. It was closer to highway speeds for me when I had 4.30. But I have 3.73...

The only thing I did today was notice this on my diff...assuming it's not a good sign. Anyone want to take this car off my hands? Please tell me axle seals aren't bad to replace...

Double post

One of my headlights did this for about half a day. I played with the red knob on the headlight motor (might be under a black cap) and it started working again. I have no explanation. Also, you can manually close them by turning the red knob if necessary.

I paid $2k for much worse because I didn't know the rocker panels were rusted...my fault. I'd consider $2k a good deal for a hard top in good shape just based on what I see for sale around here. Can't hardly find one in decent shape under $3500.

Got the 3.73 diff in yesterday. I thought it was gonna be a 2 hour job, but turned into 6...typical. Anyways, this ratio is so much better to drive on the street. 2nd feels like the fastest gear now, rather than 1st, and I don't have to shift every half second.

Is it something that needs immediate attention? Or can I put it on the back burner? I only drive the car about 20 miles a week at most.

While we're somewhat on the white smoke topic. My 1JZ puffs white smoke on most cold startups for a second or two. Is this normal? It's always done it. No warning lights and fluid levels are fine.

Thanks, I'll see if I can track those down. I'd like to get it in this weekend though, so I may have to run 4 nuts for the time being...

Does anyone know what studs to get for the differential to half-shaft hub? They look similar to an M10 wheel stud. I got some jacked up threads on a couple.

Driftmotion sells pretty much all you need. A 2jzgte map will work.

The resin is what will cause the warping, so buying a CF one won't fix the issue. If it's not fully cured when you got it, then it likely cured in the heat of the sun and shrunk in some spots.

I guess I stand corrected. Soarers do have 4 rows. Also, you'll need to make sure you have a rear sump. I don't know which Soarers have, but it'll be obvious what's on your engine.

I feel like I'll have mine for at least that long. I'm too deep to sell it and start a different project even after only 2 years. Good stories? I could talk for hours about issues on my 1JZ swap in my back yard. Like the time I put the engine and transmission in, then realized I wasn't supposed...