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For anyone's future reference, there is a computer for the transmission on some cars, labeled ECT. I'm not sure what it does though. Thinking back there was an ECT button on the shifter.

Yes. The body harness plugs from the 7MGE need to be connected to the 1JZ harness. It shouldn't be too hard to find pinouts on Google or here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx

The yellow plug appears to be the M1 from a pre-89 harness. This website should have all the wiring info if you dig around: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx There shouldn't be anything out of the ordinary like cut wired behind the cluster. You need driftmotion's oil...

400-500 is low for idle. The iac valve is known to stick and cause a low idle. I sometimes have to rev it when stopped so it doesn't die. It's been a couple years for me too. I'll look through my parts and see what I can find just to make sure I'm not full of it. I just remember there being...

I know I pulled a computer for the transmission from my car. Since I swapped to manual I never messed with the auto. Maybe only 7Ms use a separate ecu for it.

Ended up getting some SARD 650cc off rhdjapan for $480 shipped. Apparently they'll be discontinued so there's a bit of a fire sale on them if anyone's interested.

I'll be in the market for new injectors soon and am looking for something easy to install. I'd rather not modify my harness for different plugs. Looks like Sard yellows are the front runner. Shooting for around 400 rwhp. Found a thread that suggested 550-780cc for that power, but I can't find...

If you started with a 7MGE chassis (which I believe all 1986.5 are), you need a tach adapter to convert the signal. Driftmotion sells them. Maybe the ECU or transmission computer is bad? I think I have one for the transmission laying around that I'd be willing to send if you just cover shipping.

It comes with a wastegate, but it's not very good. It works, but you'll want to upgrade. Everything else was there minus the fitting for the turbo oil feed. And you'll need to buy an intercooler/piping. Siliconeintakes.com has all the piping you need. Get the turbo on, then measure and buy the...

I bought their kit without the turbo and didn't run into major issues. You'll want to get a better wastegate, but for a budget setup it's perfect. I've bought thousands worth of parts from them and have no complaints.

That's my favorite thing about it. Feels manly.

Whoops, sorry. Rear sump 1jz. I had to convert from front sump and the dipstick never fit right. I am using the correct dipstick, but I think I'm missing a bracket.

Does anyone mind grabbing a pic of how their dipstick is mounted to the intake?

Good to know. I wasn't aware it was that easy of a fix. I'd have done it had I known it would be an issue, but once in the car it's either pull the engine or seal it. On that note, screw you, Toyota for doing that.

I forgot to add that I recommend putting some sort of sealant around the metal coolant tube insert on the back of the head, where it joins the head. Mine started leaking out of the press fit somehow and I had to awkwardly contort my arm to put JB Water Weld around it, which is holding well...

Ended up taking it in to the shop for axle and pinion seal replacement. Only got charged $200. Worth it to me since it would have taken me forever. For once the car is mostly in solid shape.

I have an HX35 and it's pretty noticeable...once you actually start making boost, especially the flutter letting off (no bov lol). They're cheaper than dirt too. Look for a 7 blade. Unfortunately they're T3 flanged. HX40s are a bit bigger.

Diff seals and main seals for sure. All coolant lines. There are some behind the head and turbos that are almost impossible to reach once in the car.

Here's what's I my 1987 wiring diagram book.

Mine idles around 20 psi.