Search results

that's really good to know, thanks. so the type of tool that I had in mind for this task is as follows: -a pair of reverse-clamping pliers (when the pliers are squeezed together, the tips expand outwards, such as when trying to pull a freeze-plug out from the inner diameter :naughty:)...

yea I bet you are right about the simplicity..I like this idea. I had heard of these; do you have any pictures? or know if they are still available? thanks for the replies

sounds like a PITA... so besides getting the plug out, the transmissions are the same, with the ring inside? (for the rear speed sensor to read) I would like to figure out a way to get the plug out, with the trans still installed...any ideas?

I am re-installing cruise control on my car (came stock; assembly removed by previous owner during 1JZ swap; aftermarket wheel installed), and am gathering up the components. I think I have everything but my question is: What has everyone done about re-locating the cruise control command...

My '88 came with ABS stock. The previous owner had the current 1JZ/JDM r-154 swapped in, from a non-abs supra. Initially I thought I was simply missing the rear abs speed sensor, mounted on the extension housing/output housing of the trans. (the body connector is in place; antilock code...

good eye! but not sure if a left taillight flash for .2 seconds is as cool as a full-car shot, like the 240! lol

I have an amp and dual sub box setup right now, but was not planning on keeping it in there, for lack of trunk room and the thing is heavy! Maybe I will sell my subs and huge box locally, and look into a smaller sub box alternative. But in general, what would be a good speaker to match up...

So now I am looking into a suitable pair of rear speakers, to go with these ^^ in front. I want something that can take up the slack from the lack of "thump" capable on the infinity's. I am thinking about these . I want to be able to listen to a wide variety of music, and have each type...

Both of these tricks work every time for me. It is hard to get into reverse (without grinding at least), without doing these tricks.

I like those too. They are cheaper on ebay $74 shipped :sarcasm: Thanks for the advice. :icon_bigg

ohhh, I see thanks for the explanation and link. thanks for clarifying, that sounds like a good project! I wish there were pics out there of a finished product, shown from under the door panel. I will post up pics when I start this project soon. any suggestions on sources for the...

I haven't pulled the door panel, so I am not too familiar with the stock speaker pod, but I like this idea. so, I can make a custom half to the stock pod? and screw it together? was yours sealed tight, or are there vents?

when you say free-air, do you mean not sealed tight in the pod? and there are more ways for air to flow in and out of the pod? so maybe I could do 6.5, and make the pod "free-air"? any opinion on speakers? I'm thinking inifinity kappa, but am up for suggestions. I still want to throw...

hey, thanks. pictures would be cool, but if not, no worries. when you say it took a lot of work, what are we talkin? cutting up the speaker pods, but how much? just trying to gauge the difficulty involved. did it turn out good, to where you couldn't notice with the door panel back on...

I am doing some research on replacing my front and rear speakers, and am wondering if I can squeeze some 5-1/4" speakers in the front. Has anyone had success with this, without replacing the speaker pods?? I am willing to do a little cutting, but nothing major. Pics would be good. Also...

It looks like my amp was the problem. I hooked the battery back up, key was off and radio and clock were on. When I disconnect the power to the amp, it all turns off. I got my charging system checked at advance, and everything looks ok.

The turbo timer harness is not plugged in atm, to rule that out. No other components (no p/w, turns, heater, cig, no lights on dash) are on, it just acts as if the key is still in the "ACC" position, when it is all the way to "LOCK". Power locks still work normal. The only other electrical...

I don't think that's it because the problem is intermittent and its not just the radio, but the clock stays on too.

well, I replaced the ignition switch and am still having the exact same problem. any other ideas?

your right, the 1j and 2j arms are not the same, but the idlers are the same. You can buy the 2j pulley and swap the new idler onto your 1j arm (if it hasn't snapped like you suspect). as for grinding down the 2j arm, I have never heard of that and how would you know when it is the right...