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it looks like the black one is the coolant sensor for the ecu http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=113 try browsing through the tsrm and you can find a bunch of info. I'm sure someone can chime in on the other sensors though.

that is really cool, and very well done. it would take me some time to get used to all of the information on the screens, but it would be awesome once i did! I would definitely run a simpler version in my supra if it was available

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79682

I would say that is a good amount done to it! getting the car to where it can hold the road better is smart before any hp mods anyways. I like the wheels, car looks good. how is the interior?

it should be obvious when you are running the harness

I'm glad you brought that up, I have been trying to find out if you can use the above part with a pre '89 bumper for using 89+ turn signals. Anyone know if this works?

that's not it.

Well the battery died overnight so I jumped it, and now the problem is gone. So disconnecting the battery (of sorts) worked for now can a worn out ignition switch cause a slow start? meaning the engine cranks over for 1-3 seconds before starting up most of the time.

hahaha thats great

i dont think it's the kind of driving school you are thinking about..

thanks for all of the info! I appreciate it.

1) yes, the key has always been able to come out when the car is on, but that should just be because of the worn out key. 2) do you mean does the ignition turn with out the key in it? if so, no. the wheel locks in place.

this problem just started today. when I turn the key all the way off and the tt counts down, the radio stays on. the clock also stays lit up. nothing else stays on, just my aftermarket head unit and clock. I tried removing the tt jumper harness but it still does the same thing without the...

it also helps to read the original post. the engine is sitting on the floor, about to be put on a stand. if the engine was in the car, bumping the starter with a breaker bar on it is my favorite. to the OP: can you throw the engine in the back of a vehicle and take it to a shop that won't...

Lol

yea 150 is very encouraging, especially on a cold engine! it looks like 156 or higher is ideal on a warm engine, and 128 is the minimum. check out the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=20

compression should build up after 3-4 revolutions, once the gauge on the needle stops jumping. also, the throttle should be held wide open and the EFI fuse pulled while performing the test. doing the test on a warm engine gives the most accurate results. a cold engine will give you lower...

LOL that's interesting... to the OP, if you are in for a project and the motor does have a fresh, quality rebuild, then I would think it was worth it. the limp mode issue is kind of worrisome.

not sure anyone will be able to tell you from the pics if this block is still good...it would probably be best to tear it down, and take it to a machine shop to inspect carefully. my .02

sweet dude, any pics of your nissan? a buddy of mine put a nasty 2JZ w/ r154 into his '95 240. I have no pics of it unfortunately. there is a lot of knowledgeable help here on SM, good luck! start a build thread btw.