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just the slotted. that will make the rotors last a bit longer, but depending on your driving/drifting habits will determine the rate of wear/warpage. one thing to watch out for is that the slotted rotors eat pads faster than a regular rotor, so replacing the pads before it goes down to the...

drilled and slotted. the slots constantly scrape a new surface on teh pad to prevent rotor glazing and have consistent braking force. the drilled holes help cool the rotor down during high heat situations (a la drifting) there is quite some debate as to whether drilling out so much material...

the rotor needs a spacer in between the hub and rotor? or in between the rotor and wheel? btw, very interesting find nash :) im currently helping a friend swap 300zx brakes onto his 240sx, and now im itching to upgrade mine.

thanks so much!!! [imaginary rep] +5 [/imaginary rep] i was stuck trying to remember if it was the motor mounts or the subframe that was modded.

thats the way ima paint mine :) FTMFW looks nice btw

bump?????? arg? im sure someone has seen it??? aaron?

verray nice

well, im not able to find it... ive been searching for over an hour... you wouldnt happen to have a link to it or remember where it was? anybody help??????

im sure that ive seen it before. i think either becauseican or nashman originally posted it. it was a way to cut and re-weld the pre-89 motor mounts to fit the post-89 subframe. anybody else remember?

i wonder if it will recognize the well known and worldly accepted "three-fingered salute" for when something goes wrong? i can see it now, a large party at a restaurant about to finish their extensive order and BLUE SCREEN! aahahah...

dumbass...

trim of turbine = diameter of exducer / diameter of inducer the trim of the housing has to be identically matched to the turbine itself. the a/r of the housing has nothing to do with the actual turbine. a/r = surface area of opening that is closest to the turbine / surface area of opening...

jumbled post, but anyways... it wont work for several reasons. first, the distributor for the ge will provide a lot of spark advance as opposed to the gte's system. that could nuke the motor when combined with the higher compression pistons. also, the lexus afm wont work with the ge's...

the 100 dollar one is used by most shops. at my work, i do a fluid flush in about 5 minutes flat. however, unless you do a lot of bleeding, its prolly not a good investment.

the pump ones are expensive. the one that we use at my work is indespensible to me. it hooks up to compressed air input and blows thru a fitting and creates vacuum. simple to use: just hook it up to an open bleeder and suck until clear fluid comes out. close bleeder. they cost $101 from...

this question is for anyone who knows off-hand or has an r154 apart and wouldnt mind looking for me: how many teeth are on the rear wheel speed sensor gear in the r154 tranny?

i pulled a ge from my local junkyard, 75 dollars, took the crank and rods and used them in my gte block. i used the ge bearings too. note: i did measure every single part that went with the crank and they were all within specs. almost 5k miles later and lost of abuse and everythings fine...

dont worry about the steering wheel at first. first, get the bolts loose. then once they are loose, lock the steering wheel in the center. also, upon reassembly, make sure that if the supra's steering wheel linkage doesnt have a notch in the splines to make sure that the rack is in the center...

thats brave! ive got mine tuned for 11.5

yeah, i checked the tranny piece, it is in good condition, the o-ring was just replaced, and the gear looks great. the shaft has a bit of free play (1.5 mm or so) but i couldnt find a spec in the tsrm to check that against. the cable is brand new, and comes pre-greased from toyota. thats what...